Popular Parks, Cities and Destinations With Distance Mileage Chart
Use the chart below the map to find the approximate distance between points. Sea miles were calculated by plotting the most direct route. Tides and currents may dictate following a different route.
Talk to ten San Juan Islands cruisers and you will get ten different answers to the question, Each will be correct, or mostly correct. To support their answers, they will offer first-hand exciting personal experiences. That is why you must gather the best information, inject your wants and quirks, and then chart your own course to the San Juan's.
Our experiences and local
knowledge have been earned the old-fashioned way – one cruise at a time. Sailing,
hiking, biking and gunkholing, all while immersed in nature have been our
reward. This website is a compilation of our
travels in five sailboats and two trawlers spanning three decades. Along the way we published a cruising
guide, “San Juan Islands Cruise Guide,” followed later with a Land and Sea Guidebook,“San Juan Islands Travel Guide.” My goal
for this website and these books is to help boaters, travelers, sailors, and families
enjoy the good times we have enjoyed for many years. What is the best five-day itinerary? That's like asking what's the best color. But there are certain things that our experience and local knowledge will help with. Sometimes, one just needs a little push in the right direction to get on the right tack, so to speak. It is impossible in an essay or article to cover everything important to everybody or all the possible places to go. However, this website does cover every state park, every county park, every public dock, and much much more. You will find many links to pictures and specific posts, all composed for San Juan Island boaters. Be sure, while reading to click the links and follow your interests. Be sure to use the search box at the top of this page on the left side.
You're invited! To help you muddle through this dilemma and provide some interesting reading, please come along with us on our summer cruise in the San Juan Islands. Of course, you will be taking your own boat since ours is full.
Today, we use our laptop as a chart plotter. The program was free online Free chart plotter software but I had to buy a USB antenna for $19.95. You can get by with a small handheld GPS or even your cell phone but I enjoy the big screen. I don't want you to get lost if we get separated, or your battery is dead, so you should pick up a paper chart and a compass. chart #18421 I carry a colorful roadmap with us as well.
Let's get on the same page and assume this is your first boat trip to the San Juan's, and you are in a trailerable sailboat with a 5-6 mph speed. There are five or six starting points we have used but only three are preferred. They are Cornet Bay in Deception Pass, Cap Sante in Anacortes or Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham. If you have a fast powerboat or are coming up from the Seattle direction you will want to make time and distance adjustments. We will plan to sleep on board but use bathrooms on shore. Okay, let's go. ----- We have narrowed it down to about twenty parks to choose from for the first night, and that's not counting the marinas at Friday Harbor, Roche Harbor, or Rosario. Not to worry, I have a plan >>> all the parks and then some
Sometimes when we plan a vacation trip to the San Juan's, we try to make a great circle route because it saves time and resources. But this time we're going to decide where we go, as we go. We will see how that non-plan works out. Certain people on the boat have expressed a desire for hot showers, I guess we will see how that works out too. Since we may travel all the way across the San Juan's and back, your boat will need a minimum 75-mile range. Fuel is readily available everywhere but smart skippers figure one-third of the miles out, one-third back, and a third as a cushion. If your fuel tank is a little small you can tie a five-gallon can on deck. Knowing you have reserve fuel will ease anxious thoughts and ensure you have a great visit. Shall we also assume that you have a seaworthy vessel with all safety gear? If not, correct it before we head out, or stay home.Life jackets for all
Plan as we go itinerary:
Cornet Bay Launch Ramps
Let's begin at Cornet Bay in Deception Pass Park.
However, after reading this post, I suggest that you search this website and check out the other launch locations. Some may fit your plans better.launch pointsAlso, search the other parks and marinas and things to do. It is easy to overlook a great place or mini adventure that will make your cruise the best of all. I chose to launch at Cornet Bay this time because I really enjoy the pass scenery. The dock and the long-term parking are ideal. Plus being able to take off or return from both directions 24/7 opens up even more possibilities when not having a firm plan. If I was heading for the Sucia, Patos or Matia Island area first off, I may have chosen Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham but where we end the cruise may dictate where to begin.
Deception Pass is located in Deception Pass State Park in Washington. It is notorious for strong tidal currents and swirling eddies and is the starting point for many going to the San Juan Islands
The pass can be treacherous for boaters and kayakers. But in reality, it is not much different than Cattle Pass, Thatcher Pass or Peavine Pass. Here are some tips for navigating safely.
Looking inbound at what actually is two separate bridges.
You can see narrow slot of Canoe Pass on left side, Deception Pass on right side.
First, let's understand that in the San Juans, Puget Sound, Gulf Islands, pretty much everywhere, there are nasty places where you can get into trouble if you are prone to doing stupid things. Driving into a storm or wild surf with breaking waves is a mistake for most of us regardless of our boat or skill level.
That being said, the rising/falling tides cause currents. Large tide ranges usually mean faster currents. Narrow passes or jutting headlands tend to intensify things. Add to that, strong winds and storms and you get places to avoid on your vacation cruise.
Deception Pass is very narrow, but only narrow for a short section directly under the bridge. Consequently, the high current speed and accompanying swirlies and waves are confined.
As you approach the bridge you notice your speed or lack of it, rapidly changing making you acutely aware of your boat's top speed. Most sailboats don't have the top speed needed to overcome normal pass conditions on a calm summer day. The water may be mostly flat, whirlpools minimal, no waves, and yet the boat stalls out under the bridge with the skipper wishing
Discover places to go and the best things to do by boat in the San Juan Islands
The difference between a truly wonderful vacation and a ho-hum boat ride is the memorable experiences and special places visited along the way. These are some of our favorite haunts and things to do. Maybe some will become your favorites as well.
Matia Island one-mile loop trail
This easy one-mile loop immerses you deeply into the shaded forest the minute you take your first steps. Towering trees, oversized ferns, and thick mosses line the trail. Our first walk many years ago was so serene and calming that even our young kids were quiet and talked in whispers. Matia Island pictorial
Pygmy deer on Jones Island
The northwest is full of wildlife and deer are everywhere, or so it seems sometimes. However, apparently, the many deer on Jones Island have developed to a much smaller size. Even the older bucks with big racks are only about waist-high. Many of the deer are tame, and some are downright annoying. One time a deer met me at the water's edge as I came ashore in the dinghy. Several times deer have joined us around our campfires looking for handouts and letting the kids rub their heads and pet them. I remember once a spike kept crowding too close to the fire, he was intent on getting at a bag of corn curls. It is against park rules to feed the animals so I don't know how they learned to expect treats from boaters. Jones Island deer
Deception Pass State Park
While Deception Pass isn't located within San Juan County, any boating enthusiast would be remiss not to include it in their cruising itinerary. In fact, Cornet Bay, with its well-facilitated ramp, serves as a prime launch point for those embarking on their nautical adventures. But, here's a piece of advice – don't just launch and rush through; take the time to savor the breathtaking scenery.
Consider planning part of your voyage around the four daily occurrences of slack tide. At slack tide, the turbulent waters temporarily calm, providing an excellent opportunity for exploration. A mere quarter-mile beyond the pass, still within the park's boundaries, you'll discover Sharpe Cove. Here, you can moor your vessel at the floating dock, and at the head of the ramp stands the remarkable Maiden of Deception Pass.
Maiden of Deception Pass at Sharpe Cove
This extraordinary statue, carved from a towering cedar tree, stands at an impressive twenty-five feet. It portrays a Samish woman gracefully holding a salmon aloft. The story it tells is one of unwavering sacrifice, representing a Native Indian woman who risked her life to ensure her people would never go hungry. It's a powerful testament to the deep connection between the indigenous people and the land.
Rosario Beach
Just a stone's throw from the Maiden lies Rosario Beach, a renowned tide pool area. It's a place where nature's wonders are on full display, offering an opportunity to observe a rich variety of marine life and coastal ecosystems up close. So, when charting your course through these waters, ensure you dedicate some time to exploring Deception Pass and its fascinating surroundings. The remarkable beauty and cultural significance of the area are sure to leave a lasting impression on any adventurer. Deception Pass
Did you notice?
As a writer wannabe, I enjoy playing with words. Lately, I have been kicking around artificial intelligence. The next passage and the preceding passage were passed through an AI program. I supplied the basic information, but not the fluffy language, enjoy.
The Swinomish Channel
A hidden gem for seasoned boaters, provides a picturesque and relaxing alternative to the sometimes turbulent waters of Deception Pass. Many visitors who park long-term at the Cornet Bay boat ramp in Deception Pass Park, myself included, choose to embark on this delightful detour. When heading out, instead of veering right into the unpredictable waters of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Rosario Strait, consider retracing your route for a few miles and setting a course through the serene Swinomish Channel. This not only offers a respite from the challenges of the Pass but also shields you from the often encroaching fog in the Straits. As a delightful bonus, you can make a pit stop at the charming town of La Conner. Nestled along the banks of the channel, La Conner welcomes boaters with open arms. The town offers four docks, perfect for short-term or overnight stays. A leisurely stroll along the charming boardwalk presents a plethora of quaint shops, inviting bistros, and even a provision store for all your needs.So, when charting your course, why not opt for the scenic great circle route, meandering through the Swinomish Channel? Along the way, take in the breathtaking scenery, and don't forget to treat yourself to a delectable ice cream cone at La Conner, making your journey all the more memorable. (AI is not bad, but not my voice)
Hikes
The San Juan's are full of hikes, walks, and places to explore and I'm not going to list all of them on Sucia, Stuart, Matia, James, Jones ... But two hikes beckon me back again and again because they reward me, not just exhaust me. Hiking to the top of *Eagle Bluff on Cypress and the top of *Youngs Peak, aka Young Hill at English Camp. Both hikes are thigh burners and just plain hard work. Both are short and intense, we pace ourselves, rest, and keep coming back. The summit views are worth it. Bring cameras and water. Go to this link and then scroll down to #7 and #9
Sucia and Echo Bay
Use your dinghy, kayak, or paddleboard to explore Echo Bay: Sounds simple enough and you probably already plan to, but I suggest you go to Ewing Cove at the far northeast end of Echo Bay. You can sneak in with your big boat but using the dinghy allows you to paddle through some narrow slots and get up close to some cool cliffs and rocks. You can even go ashore to use the privy, have a campfire, or drop off passengers who want to make the long hike back through the woods to Fossil Bay. Ewing Cove has two buoys and is at the far north end or point of Echo Bay on Sucia Island. Watch for rocks, follow your chart, watch the sounder, and go slow.
Sculpture Park at Roche Harbor
I don't believe the park is part of Roche Harbor but if you go by boat, you need to get a slip at the marina or anchor and go ashore at a dinghy dock. Once on shore, walk uphill past the pool and cabins, and cross the road, you can't miss it. It's free, donations are welcome. We enjoy strolling through the fields, meadows and woods. The unique large art pieces are spread out over twenty acres. Some spin and whirl, some are interactive, and some have deer grazing nearby. There is something for all ages and dogs are welcome too.
Turn Point lighthouse museum hike
Chances are that you already know about this very popular destination. Most newcomers will be staying at either Prevost or Reid Harbors and then hike the 2.5 miles (one way) from the State Park docks. You can save two miles and an hour by taking the dinghy to the county dock at the far north end of Prevost Harbor. We usually anchor near the county dock and then leave the dinghy tied to the small float while we walk out to Turn Point.
Moran Museum
You should stop by Rosario Resort in East Sound on Orcas Island. You may anchor, tie to a buoy, ask for a complimentary slip, or spend the night. While you are there make your way to the third floor of the mansion-turned-resort office and restaurant. The top floor museum is dedicated to the early days of Robert Moran and the San Juans.
Friday Harbor music on the promenade
The short promenade that runs between the marina office and main street is a small city park. Most summer weekends the stage is filled with musicians entertaining cruisers and locals. It is lots of fun and free, Music will drift out on the dock to your boat but not if you are somewhere else. When planning your travels, plan Saturday at Friday Harbor.
Your interests will vary from ours, so this list may not be perfect for you. I suggest that you search this website, you may discover the perfect idea.
Turn point museum at the lighthouse
Click below to see Spencer Spit State Park on Lopez
Windrose, aka "Rosey" has made it to the San Juans
In good company anchored at Jones Island
I wrote this post ten years ago. It is about a tsunami-damaged boat we rescued following the Fukushima Japan earthquake of 2011. Windrose was pummeled but not quite sunk as her slip was destroyed around her in
Crescent City, CA.
As I write this post, Rosey's journey back is finally almost complete.
Today will be another white knuckle trip up the interstate for six hours, and then Monday we will be slinging her into Swinomish Channel. After a day or so rigging we will be heading to Hood Canal to visit Camp Parsons Boy Scout Camp to pick up our son. Next week we expect to make it to San Juan Island with three bicycles on board so we can do a little bike riding. Right now I am preparing to download some tide forecasts and somehow appease the fog gods to lay off the Strait of Juan De Fuca. I'm still short a trusted GPS, the radar is not tested, and my brand new Humminbird was shipped off for repairs and won't be back in time. So we will be dependent on our eyes, good looks, and the antique spinning sounder that makes a whirring sound. I think we will be just fine, but don't count on us to make any appointments on time, which is what I would say if we were on a modern newer boat with all systems functioning.
This post first appeared in the web site in 2011. Parking and launching fees at Cornet Bay have since gone up a little.
Camping, traveling, vacation rentals, condo's and resorts on a budget,
is it even possible?
Yes it is. Inexpensive (cheap) vacations are possible if you, "go by boat" or yacht as some say. The trick is to already own the yacht and then camp on it at all the great places. Think of it like going to RV parks only without the garish over the top land schooners parked in the best spots.
Okay, no more promos for boat camping. Assuming you are a newbie to the San Juan Island boating group, you may be wanting to know why you should start at Deception Pass State Park if you are headed for the islands.
The Simple answer is, the park has the best all weather, all tide launching ramp and long term parking lot. Plus, Deception Pass is one of the places to see that you should not miss, and the Cornet Bay dock is a wonderful place to hangout overnight, or for a few days or longer.
The Google photos above with labels will help you to orient yourself. Because slow boats must time their passage through the pass you may find yourself spending the night at the dock. I always plan to spend the first night at the dock because after driving six hours, rigging and launching my sailboat, it's late and I'm tired. My crew can fish, hike and race around in the dinghy while I take a break. The next day I'm ready to go, and cast off at slack tide which may be at noon or 9am. The time doesn't matter, I'm on vacation time now.
The launch fee is around $6, parking is $10/day and staying at the dock is 50 cents a foot. The ramp has three or four lanes with floats. Trailer parking is abundant and long-term. You can anchor out for free, anytime, anywhere. There is a fist of quarters shower that short times you in the bathroom. Lots of locals and campers come down to fish off the floats, but boats tying up have priority. Try explaining that to a fisherman.
It is a very short run out the pass, under the bridge and into the Strait of Juan De Fuca, where high seas or fog may cause you to change your plans, if so, just head the other way to Swinomish Channel. If you have never cruised the channel before, do it for sure, it only adds about 15 miles to your trip and is well worthwhile. Or when you come back a week or so later, use the channel, but try to work it into your plans. FYI, your boat will need to make 10 mph or better to overcome the worst of pass current, otherwise you will have to time it like the rest of us. Of course with a favorable current you can rush on through, but the standing waves can be pretty big at times and an open bow boat will seem like a poor choice. The pass is narrowest directly under the bridge, so you will have a fast current for only a very short distance.
Dock and ramp at Deception Pass State Park (Cornet Bay)
You should run through Deception Pass for the beauty of it.
Next door is Canoe Pass,
and while navigable, should only be used at slack water, is very narrow and sight distance restricted right under the bridge, it is a little creepy when the whirlpools turn on and begin spinning you towards the rock cliff face. Sometimes we take our 9' dinghy with its 7.5 hp motor around Pass Island and wave to the gawkers on the bridge, but when the flood or ebb starts cascading, a tiny little dinghy has no business in either pass.
When you come back a week or so later and are ready to head home you can wait for slack water outside the pass at the dock in Sharpe Cove or Bowman Bay.
I always spend my last night at the dock, and get a good rest for the long drive home.
Here's a link to the marine parks locating map marine parks maps etc. click here
Tall ship ghosting through the pass at high slack water (photo taken from the bridge)
In 60 minutes standing waves 3-6 feet tall may form and the current will be 5-8 mph
I would be remiss to not point out that most boats can transit the pass a good deal before or after slack water, slack water is simply zero current like in the picture. Also, don't forget Swinomish Channel is just around the corner and avoids the pass altogether.
Click below for a satellite view of Deception Pass
If camping is your primary activity and your boat is for day use such as exploring, fishing and crabbing, you will find these parks of interest.
On the mainland:
Washington Park in Anacortes - located one mile past the ferry landing.
Washington Park boat ramp in Anacortes
Excerpt from their website: In the campground there are 68 campsites, 46 have water and electrical hook-ups. These rent for $27 a night. There are 22 non-utility sites that rent for $21 per night. There are 25 sites available on a first-come, first-served basis. Please note that reservations must be made 14 days in advance. A sewer dump station is located near the park exit. Camping check-in and check-out time is 1 p.m. The campground is open year round. Please note: Maximum stay limit is 14 days. Visit the reservation website. click here >>Washington ParkThe boat launch at Washington Park was developed and is maintained for the specific use of recreational boaters. Boat launch parking is $9/day and boaters may stay a maximum of 14 days. The two lane launch ramp is suitable for all trailer-able boats, power or sail. You may not overnight at dock, but may anchor nearby. Ramp is a short walk to campground.
Deception Pass State Park - roughly ten miles south of Anacortes. It is important to note some of the differences between Washington Park and Deception Pass Park. While Deception Pass camp sites exceed three hundred in three different campgrounds, none are walking distance to the four lane boat ramp at Cornet Bay. However the modern well designed boat ramp claims to have two thousand feet of side tie moorage and overnight at the dock for up to three nights is allowed. Anchoring close by is simple and free. The ramp parking lot is massive and long term is allowed for a fee.
Four lane all tide - Cornet Bay ramp at Deception Pass Park is open 24/7
Lastly: Those putting in at Washington Park will be much closer to the inner island area after simply crossing Rosario Strait (four miles), but those putting in at Cornet Bay will have to deal with the pass and a longer run up Rosario or an even longer run through Swinomish Channel. These are not insignificant differences and should be well considered according to your overall plan before making your decision.
In the Islands:
Odlin County Park on Lopez Island
Odlin park has thirty one campsites and reservations are a good idea. The boat ramp is sub parr at best and is not suitable for anything but a small skiff and a four wheel drive. There is no ramp dock and best used at high tide only. The ramp is a short walk to the campground.
San Juan County Park on San Juan Island
San Juan park is very similar to Odlin park with twenty six sites, they also take reservations.
The boat ramp is also sub parr and should only be considered for skiffs being hauled with four wheel drives, again the ramp is in the park and there is no float.
Moran State Park on Orcas Island is a State Park as is Deception Pass.
They boast over one hundred campsites, some suitable for RV's. Moran park is not ocean front and does not have a salt water ramp, however it is only five miles to the county boat ramp at Obstruction Pass.
A private park alternative on Orcas Island is West Beach Resort in Eastsound
They have camping, docks, fuel, deli store and a boat ramp, suitable for skiffs and four wheel drives.
San Juan Island:
If you take your skiff to San Juan Island and stay at a private residence, rental or hotel you can put the boat in at Jackson Beach day use park. The ramp is well designed, has parking and a dock. Jackson Beach is about two miles from Friday Harbor.
Ferries and trailers:
Don't forget to check the ferry schedules and fares, hauling trailers on the ferry can get expensive and frustrating - very few cruisers do it!
My recommendation for mainland camping is that you get a reservation and camp at Washington Park, the run time to Friday Harbor is under an hour, the entire San Juan area will be at your door.
Click below to see a satellite view of Washington Park
Note: this is a very old post I am re-posting so some prices will be off.
Suggested Cruise to Victoria BC with Whale Watching and San Juan Islands Stop Overs This article is for first timers to the San Juan Island area and has the answers you may be looking for. Timeless advice to make your first trip a fun success.
places to launch and stay on your boat
distances between stops
customs and immigration
alternate planning
what to expect
basic boating information
Study this map and familiarize yourself with names and places.
Lets start this Cruise at Cornet Bay in Deception Pass State Park (Your going to Canada and back, did you remember to bring your passports and Children ID's? the rules are changing)
Boat launch at Cornet Bay (Deception Pass)
Day one, you arrive at Deception Pass and its probably late in the day and your tired, so lets plan on spending the night right here on the boat securely tied to the dock at Cornet Bay. You will pay a launch fee and $10/day parking, plus 50 cents a foot for spending night at dock. Pay at the self serve kiosk. If your not sure of when your coming back simply estimate, leave a note explaining, the ranger will understand. The ramp is very good, all tide. The parking is huge, you will not have a problem.
There is a park store, but you should have done your provisioning in Anacortes.
Heading westward facing an incoming current, (another ten minutes and we wouldn't have the speed to overcome the 7+ mph current)
Day two, leg #1, our destination is Friday Harbor, but first you must time the pass. You should already be familiar with the tide levels and times at Deception Pass (download a page from any of of dozens of sites including NOAA) so cast off at high or low tide. You can be half an hour early or late, this gives you a one hour window. (it takes just ten minutes to reach the pass from the dock) If you are catching a falling tide (current is going out to sea) you can be very late but standing waves may scare you and the crew as you take a fast sled ride and shoot out into the Strait of Juan De Fuca. If you are late and head out on a rising tide, your boat may not have enough speed to overcome the in rushing torrent, and your stuck until the next slack water. The pass is not a problem, it is narrow with the fastest water for only about 250 feet, but slow sailboats can meet their match every four to six hours.
This is not all the parks, just the ones you may want to make part of your cruising. It's unlikely you can visit all in one trip and still do a decent job of sightseeing. You should plan multiple visits to the San Juans.
Many people choose Jones as their favorite for just hanging for a few days, so Jones is first.
For hiking, Sucia, or Pelican Beach on Cypress Island are the best, but all the parks have hiking trails.
Some parks are in a convenient location when you need to spend the night and you're between destinations, Saddle Bag, Eagle Harbor, and Odlin would fit this description.
Most parks with docks have picnic tables on the floats, which are very handy for extending your living area, socializing, and meeting other boaters.
For marinas/etc. where you can get fuel and provisions try this list >> Marinas - fuel - beer and ice - slips for rent
Jones Island
James Island
Clark Island
Doe Island (possibly still gone) we miss it
Obstruction Pass
Pelican Beach
Eagle Harbor
Cypress Head
Matia
Patos
Sucia
Stuart Island (Prevost & Reid Harbor)
Spencer Spit
Odlin County Park
Washington Park
Deception Pass Park
Saddlebag Island
Sidney Spit Marine Park (Canada)
Click here to go to complete description and maps of above listed parks
Lots of boaters know where Bowman Bay is located but just go right on by without stopping. It's an easy place to skip because you're always on your way to somewhere, somewhere else. Most of the time for us we're heading through Deception Pass and then onto the San Juan's or going the other way with La Conner, or Puget Sound in mind. With this knowledge we decided to make Bowman Bay our primary destination. We would spend a night or two, explore the anchorage areas, hike the trails, have a campfire if possible and see what the place has to offer.
This tiny spit protects and marks the far end of Bowman Bay although on the chart it's listed as Sharpe cove.
For starters it offers Deception Pass with fantastic scenery as your constant backdrop, how can you go wrong? On this mini cruise we timed our arrival at the pass so that we would not encounter opposing current and have a window all afternoon to make it through. Our partially disabled boat pushed by an outboard (get-er-home kicker) had a top speed of 5 mph, so once committed to shooting the gap so to speak, we knew we weren't coming back, at least not for awhile.
The trail runs along the shore for all of Bowman Bay, or you may hike up to the bridge and beyond to explore the rest of Deception Pass Park
Bowman Bay is part of Deception Pass State Park. It's on the outside of the pass, on the north side of the bridge, so this means it is subject to the whims and tantrums of the Strait of Juan De Fuca. To clarify -- fog, waves and swells may be part of the cruise, but on our visit, flat waters and lots of balmy sunshine were the order of the day.
The bay really consists of two distinct areas, the further in more protected waters are opposite the campground and offer a half dozen or so anchor buoys just a dinghy ride from shore.
At the other end of the bay is a nice but smallish float hidden and protected by a little hook of a point. (Sharpe Cove) We chose the float so we could easily access the park bathrooms and walk to the beach for a campfire. To make room and keep our 5 1/2 foot keel out of the mud we tied up with half the boat hanging out past the end of the dock.
From our float location we walked all the way to the other end of the bay and out onto a grassy knoll called Lighthouse Point, (there is no lighthouse, but there is a flashing green, 4s nav aid) for a fantastic view of Deception Pass and the bridge. The hike took several hours and we were suitably tired afterwards but this was by no means a tough or experts only hike. The only comment I want to offer is be sure to give yourself enough time to enjoy, explore, and get back before dark. There are a few spots you don't want to try without a flashlight if it gets dark on you.
The wharf is for walking only, no boats may tie up. Anchor buoys are beyond wharf, campground is to right.
From Lighthouse Point you can see that the Deception Pass bridge is really two bridges with Pass Island in the middle. Because of its S curve shape, narrow Canoe Pass on the left is all but invisible, but still easily navigable during slack water.
This was taken from the campground at Bowman Bay looking out at the Strait of Juan De Fuca. That far off woodsy bump in the middle is Deception Island. Sharpe Cove with its little float is around the small point on right side. Rocks out there are charted and easily avoidable but must be respected.
It's hard to believe that the still and reflective waters of Lottie Bay are only a third mile from Deception Pass, and no you should not bring your boat in here, dinghy or kayak yes - but not your deep draft yacht.
The Maiden of Deception Pass is as much a landmark as carved wood can be and is located at the top of the gangway leading from the float at Sharpe Cove. Beyond is Rosario Beach famous for tide pooling and driftwood.
On a clear day you would see Vancouver Island, but this wasn't bad.
In the morning after a leisurely coffee and stroll exploring the tide pools on the Rosario Beach side of the point, Linda contemplates, what I don't know. The tide was rising and the current at the pass would be flowing inward for several hours. We reluctantly cast off and steered into the current. In minutes we were under the bridge and on our way to our slip at Shelter Bay in La Conner, and then home. Bowman Bay is no longer that place we just fly by on our way to somewhere else.
Click below for a satellite view of Deception Pass and Sharpe Cove
We are tied up in slip F23 at Friday Harbor for our second night and since we have free wifi I thought I would let you know what is going on right now.
Guest slip at Friday Harbor
I can proclaim Rosey has made it to the San Juans, but the story is far from told.
As you know we started in La Conner and made a 160 mile detour into Hood canal. At our farthest turn around point Roseys old engine chose to quit and we were forced to return to LaConner using our 7.5 hp Honda dinghy motor. After some discussion and a good nights sleep in our rented slip we decided to push on to San Juan Island at a maximum 4 mph and hope the wind would help out. The trip to Friday Harbor took about eleven hours overall. We had some following wind boost in Lopez sound, but when we turned the corner into Upright Channel things came to life and we had fantastic sailing right to the marina breakwater, at times our gps showed us 7.1 mph. Every tack required un-hooking jib sheets from handle bars, next time I load bikes I will try to improve the system.
Yesterday we rode our bicycles to Cattle Pass Point Lighthouse and then over to Lime Kiln Park, a distance of about 35 miles. We had to walk up some of the hills and several jerks honked at us. None us of were really in shape, but today we feel good with no soreness so it worked out fine
Today we plan to head back with a stop at Spencer Spit and then spend the night at James Island while we wait for flood tide tommorrow morning, hopefully the current will whisk us all the way to LaConner because our 4 mph speed is stopped dead by an opposing wind and current.
Spencer Spit
Anchored at James Island
So the answer to the "how many horsepower" question is 7.5 hp, but were not back to La Conner yet.
John
(for anyone that is curious - I switched to a 15 hp Honda and gained one mph in top speed and one mph in cruising speed - imho 15 hp is the correct outboard auxiliary power for a boat like Windrose (seven ton +-)
one week later from home:
OK, update time, first off, the four boat dock at James Island was full so we had to anchor out and dinghy to shore at the kayak campground for our campfire to cook hot dog and s'mores. Anchoring was a real chore, we tried setting the hook three times in two locations before I felt good enough to sleep through a tide change. We ended up with a Bahamian set using our grapple anchor for number two. Plus at Linda's urging I set Roseys antique sounder alarm at two fathoms, I slept like a rock until daylight. We waited for the current change and upped anchor around noon, as soon as we came around the end of James the kicker quit. For a moment I considered raising sail but decided trying to claw off a lee shore was a bad move. We had about a thousand feet before we would be in trouble, and knowing we could quickly drop three hooks I concentrated on fixing the kicker problem asap. Turned out the primer bulb was sucking air because the hose barb was broken halfway through, with a little realigning of the hose it started up and never quit again, but the problem obviously needs attention before we depend on it again. Once clear of James with the wind still on our beam we loosened both sails and made quick work of Rosario Strait. The wind held steady and the helping current up Guemes channel boosted us along at over 5mph right into Swinomish channel where the wind quit, but the current and kicker carried us up to LaConner in short order. With only one half mile left to reach Shelter Bay the current did an about face. Under Rainbow bridge I let the motor idle in neutral so I could measure the current with the gps, astonishingly we were already being swept back at 2 mph and losing fast. We quickly spun around and ran at wot to regain our lost ground and make it into the protected channel leading to our moorage. Luckily we gave our selves just enough time to make it, an hour or so later would have been a nightmare current possibly forcing us to anchor in the channel somewhere waiting for the current change.
Sunrise from shore from Langley on Whidbey Island in Saratoga Passage
All systems running before engine gave up
see the old spinning flashing light depth sounder? (very nostalgic)
Stopped by Navy for submarine while crossing to Port Ludlow
Lonely Rosey is only guest at Pleasant Harbor on Hood Canal, btw hot showers, wifi come with slip fee
Camp Parson Boy Scout Camp at Jackson Cove on Dabob Bay (Hood Canal)
We anchored at Camp Parsons and went ashore for the Campfire on Jaidens last night of summer camp. Our primary reason for making trip up Hood Canal was to pick up Jaiden and then head north to our planned bicycle trip around San Juan Island. In the morning after all the scouts had departed in their many cars we discovered Rosey's engine had given up for good. With only our 7.5 kicker and three gallons of gas our options were limited. With the help of Quintin in Portland via cell phone, google maps, and an upcoming beer festival for incentive. We were directed five miles to Seabeck where I anchored and took the dinghy to shore. I then hitched a ride with some local fisherman to Home Depot, purchased four five gallon gas cans and returned with enough fuel to complete our journey.
Our first trip with Rosey is behind us now, we spent twelve days, covered over two hundred sea miles, 35+ bicycle miles, got held up by a nuclear sub, what a great time.
Here is a follow up about Roseys not starting that morning. It turned out the shut down lever was still pulled out due to a weak spring or whatever, and after an aggravating but sorta adventurous ordeal I discovered the issue, pushed the lever, and she started up and has ran fine ever since. So operator error or something like that hits again.
Click below for a satellite view of Shelter Bay in La Conner
Is Deception Pass the fabled Northwest Passage? Not if you are headed for the "Spice Islands" In the early days of exploring, Deception Pass was incorrectly charted as a narrow passage leading to a small bay. As it turned out, it was indeed a narrow spot but it was not a small bay, instead it separated huge Whidbey Island from the mainland. The small bay turned out to be a massive inland sea running all the way to Olympia, much of which ebbed and flooded through Deception Pass. The pass is really two passes with a small island in the middle. Canoe Pass is on the north side and Deception Pass is on the south. From a boaters viewpoint on the water, there is no confusing which side is the one to use. Canoe Pass is much smaller and due to the curving cliff wall you cannot see all the way through. The water flow routinely exceeds 8 kts, (more on the Canoe side) which makes sailboat transits difficult without planning for slack tide and no current.
On this trip we are on our way from Anacortes to Port Townsend and decide to spend the night at Cornet Bay, which is inside Deception Pass State Park. Cornet Bay has a large dock facility with boat ramps, picnic tables, restrooms and hiking. You may choose to tie up to the dock for a nominal fee, or anchor for free. We arrive at and enter Deception pass on our 28 foot sailboat late in the day on an incoming tide. Windsong cruises at about 5 knots and the pass current was probably running at 7 knots or so. This adds up to a 12 knot ground speed, so the cliffs and gorgeous scenery just flew by as we raced along. The water was turbulent with eddies and whirlpools tugging at our keel and rudder. Steering the boat is a full time job. The highway bridge overhead crosses at the narrowest point about 180 feet above.
Looking inward or east you can easily see large Deception Pass on the right and small Canoe Pass on the left. The current is minimal but may be four or five mph causing sailboats to wait for slack water.
Again both passes are visible in this westward (outbound view). Canoe Pass is on right, but due to S shape cannot be seen through. The current is obvious as shown by the whirls and eddies on the surface. The current is strongest directly under bridge and may be fast enough to stop a slow boat going against it.
This is the Cornet Bay dock. Deception Pass is directly beyond little Ben Ure Island in background. Only a third mile away the pass may be raging but at the dock it is a great place to be. The four lane boat ramp is to the right outside the picture.
Tourists are watching from the bridge, so it’s a good time to look up and wave. Seconds later Deception Pass is behind us and we are cautiously making our way across a very shallow area most boaters avoid. We are sneaking into Cornet bay without going the long way around little Ben Ure Island. It would’ve taken all of five minutes to go around but the gunkholer in me can’t resist thin water, and I am driving a five foot draft keel boat of all things. Besides, past experience has taught me that with the rising tide we can quickly float off any trouble I get us into. By the time we complete our little short cut, I have added about thirty minutes by being super cautious, and traveled only a quarter mile. While on final approach to the dock my crew is busy hanging out fenders and getting lines ready. The only boat at the dock is a vintage sedan of about 50 feet. The skipper comes out and stands ready to receive our line. She is a lady of the sea, she may be younger than her boat or maybe older. It’s impossible to tell, and not polite to ask. I don’t remember any problem with current or wind, but my crew seemed to be yelling and tripping over each other while trying to get us parked. I do remember handing our 12 foot telescoping boat hook to someone and the next thing I see is the handle disappearing into the water. After the pole is lost, everyone is silent, the lady on the dock holding our line must think we belong locked up somewhere safe and away from boats or at least saltwater. I don’t think you ever recover from a first impression gone bad. I secure Windsong using four dock lines, a fore and aft line and two spring lines, picture perfect and by the book. That should help our tainted image I think. Smelt are running and there are about 20 fishermen on the docks. Jaiden is 9 years old and is drawn to the fishing like a cat. Soon a lady and her husband have him set up with a spare pole and he is busy catching the little silver fish about as fast as he can throw out the hook. I am talking to the skipper of the older Chris Craft, she is up from the Tacoma area and has owned the boat for a long time. It was a real beauty once, a classic, all wood hull, acres of mahogany and teak. She had quit doing any bright work cosmetic maintenance years ago, the spar varnish was peeling and coming off in sheets. She told me she was by herself and would spend the summer at one spot or another in the San Juan’s and Puget Sound. Judging by the blankets, tarps, and misc. junk hanging about, she’d been at it awhile already. Around sunset Linda and I went for a hike out to a point where we had a good view toward Deception Pass. It was high tide, the current had wound down to nothing, whirlpools and eddies were taking a short break. We gaze out at the setting sun and spot a little boat being rowed in the pass as if it was a placid lake. Back at the boat the fish have quit biting and the fishermen have left, a few more boats have arrived and taken their places at the dock for the night. The Chris Craft has a couple long wood boat poles with shiny brass hook ends, they have either been stored inside or refinished recently. The skipper says I can borrow one in the morning, just be sure to put it back when I’m done. I silently wonder if she thinks I’ll lose it like mine. Ever since losing our pole I’ve been thinking of a way to get it back. Low tide is just before noon and the water level may drop enough to see my pole on the bottom. The water should be about 9 feet deep at low tide and with the Chris Craft skippers 12 foot pole I might be able to bring mine up. In the morning a few fishermen are around but the smelt have left. The kids don’t mind our planned late departure, they find plenty to do. I’m waiting for all the waters of Puget Sound to rush through Deception Pass and lower the level enough to get my boat pole back. I think, if we were under way as planned the current would flush Windsong back under the bridge and in seconds we would be shot into Juan De Fuca strait on our way to Port Townsend. At about 30 minutes before low tide I am able to make out a light colored straight object on the bottom, I’m sure it’s my pole. I lower the skipper’s varnished wood pole into the water and check to make sure it floats. I don’t want to confirm any suspicions she already has. It’s difficult to maneuver the wood pole under water because it floats, and my pole on the bottom is hard to see. I manage to touch my pole and send it further away from the dock. After more practice prodding I determine the middle of the pole and drag it closer. The water is still dropping, but for how long? Once we reach low tide the water will start back up, the current in the pass will reverse and we may be stuck on the inside until slack high tide in another six hours or so. That means we won’t make Port Townsend. Things are tensing up, I want my pole back, but I want to make it through the pass too. I tell everyone to get ready to go, there’s no time to spare, and we’re leaving in a few minutes. The water drops some more and I can see the poles blurry outline quite well. I lean over the edge between the boat and the dock and deftly drag my pole across the bottom until it is right below me. I can’t tell which end has the hook but I’m able to lift one end and begin to stand it up in the water when it slips and falls back to the bottom. Several times I get it started up but each time it slips away. I try picking up the other end while rotating the skippers pole just a little and manage to bring the end almost to the surface. I pin the pole against the dock, got it. Lets go, I yell as I put the wood pole back on the Chris Craft and thank the skipper. We cast off and head for the pass. I don’t consider the shallow short cut we came in through, not at low tide and certainly not at full throttle. When we get around Ben Ure Island and see Deception Pass I fear we are too late. Windsong is closing the distance fast, but as the canyon narrows the current increases, the fastest current is at the narrowest point. Windsongs speed over the ground has steadily dropped even though her diesel motor is red lined at 3,000 rpm. We are just barely creeping forward until we are directly under the bridge, for awhile I thought we would make it. I know there are people on the bridge watching us, but I’m not going to wave, I know they’re saying to each other “he’s not going to make it, he’s not going to make it.” When I look at shore 50 feet away I can tell we have stopped moving in spite of leaving a wake and the screaming motor. Instinctively I shove the throttle lever harder and glance back at shore, no movement, we’ve lost the race. It is loud on board, a wide open diesel is not quiet, the water is very turbulent and whirlpools form and move around in the eddies. Some of the bigger whirlpools make sucking sounds as they go by. I’m at a loss, I don’t know what to do. I’m about to give up and go back to Cornet Bay when Linda suggests moving closer to shore, where the current may be less. The water depth is very deep in the pass, otherwise there would be massive rapids with this huge volume of water (sometimes there are). We are only 50 feet from shore, but I gently steer us closer while studying the water beside us and ahead of us. At about 20 feet we start to gain a little and I look ahead watching for any sideways water that may slam us into the rock cliff. The narrowest place in Deception pass is only about 100 feet long. If we can somehow make the next 100 feet we’ll have it. For ten agonizing minutes we play tag with cliffs and whirlpools. Time slows to a crawl as we creep forward, gaining a little, losing a little, and then we win. Deception Pass lets us go.
The picture flattens what is about fifteen feet across two feet deep and making sucking sounds. This might be bad news for a kayak, canoe or small dinghy. Even bigger boats feel their tug on the keel.
We definitely speed up, I know we have made it through. As our speed increases I move further from shore, I turn and look up at the bridge and give everyone a big "we made it" wave. Soon we clear the rocky point, turn south, running parallel to the shore on Whidbey Island. The engine is quietly pushing us along at about 4 knots. Looking at the chart I estimate it’s about 20 miles or so to Port Townsend. Finally for the first time today I can relax. We recovered our pole and beat the pass, let’s eat I say.
While skirting Whidbey Island the motion on board is uncomfortable, there’s a swell coming up the Strait of Juan De Fuca and when it meets shallow water near shore it piles up and we are on top of that pile rocking sideways. I have been following a depth line of about 50 feet which is pretty close to shore. I like being close so I can see the scenery but I move out to over 100 feet deep and the motion gets a little better. As I look ahead towards Port Townsend it looks hazy, most likely fog is on the verge of forming. We have had several run-ins with thick fog and no longer consider it fun. Fog is dangerous and to be avoided.
The trip so far has been off the beaten track so to speak, close to shore and safe from commercial traffic, but Port Townsend is on the other side of Admiralty Inlet, the main route for overseas traffic in and out of Puget Sound. Where we cross is about three or four miles wide. All ship and barge traffic headed to or from Seattle must use this stretch of water. We’re glad the fog has held off when we make the crossing over to Port Townsend. We don’t see a single ship, just the Keystone-Port Townsend Ferry. Several traveling boats like us are anchored just off shore from the seawall, we pull up to the town dock and tie up for free, no yelling or tripping and the boat hook stayed in its place, but no one is watching. What luck I was expecting either no room at the inn or having to pay $25 a night. Fore and aft dock lines, two spring lines, and we are set for the night.
The weather is not really overcast, it’s more like a high fog layer is just above our heads. It is a little cold and damp. To be sure, it is a dreary depressing day since we crossed over. Soon we walk up the gangway and head into town. Port Townsend has a refurbished reborn old town area running along the shoreline and we quickly become immersed in gift shops. The ice cream shop is a big hit. There is a stairway that climbs the hill in the middle of town and we decide to walk up to the top and see what’s up there, our reward is nothing but some housing developments. We follow a circuitous road back to the water and discover a maritime museum and the boat basin where we could’ve paid to stay. Back at waters edge Jaiden is entertained playing in the city park. Next door is the police station with three police cars in the parking lot. One car is an absolute mess, seagulls have been using it for target practice so much that it would be impossible to see out the windshield. I get a picture. Kailey is in a snit, she wont talk, while we explored the Seafarers memorial earlier she just leaned against the wall and pouted. Walking back to the boat is a short two minute trip in silence.
Visiting small towns by boat usually means you arrive at the back door right in the middle of town. Port Townsend is no exception, any glitzy welcome display is probably up the hill somewhere on the main road. Windsong looks cold, small and lonely at the bottom of the ramp. I see someone has come ashore by dinghy. They have dragged their shore boat up onto the dock rather than tie up. Probably a good idea, the passing ships wakes are pounding the seawall. Out a ways are the same group of boats anchored, one undoubtedly belongs to the dinghy. I busy myself making things ship shape. Everything is getting wet, but it’s not raining. The bean bag chair is getting wet but there’s no room in the cabin and it won’t fit in the lazarette. I’m bored and restless, come on Jaiden, lets go for a walk I say. (I’m beginning to look forward to leaving in the morning). We walk straight to a little wine shop I spotted earlier. Its thirty minutes from closing time and the owner is by himself. I know less than nothing about wines so I busy myself comparing prices and looking for cool names. I choose a red wine with a picture of a sailboat on the label. The shop keeper is a transplant from somewhere, so we have lots to talk about, every so often I tell Jaiden to be careful or don’t touch something. Two hours after closing we leave the wine shop and walk back to the boat to find a cork screw. Linda is annoyed and concerned. Probably annoyed with being left behind with Kailey the grump and concerned for Jaidens safety. I don’t remember if we ate or snacked for dinner. It was a rough night Linda tells me in the morning, with all the waves rocking and slamming us into the dock, she hardly slept at all. I have to take her word for it, I slept well. Outside the fog has dropped onto us, the anchored boats are not visible and yet they are less than 500 feet away.
Public dock at Port Townsend is right next to the ferry dock but you would never know it in the thick fog.
I watch the ferry leave and disappear into the gloom before it’s wake reaches us. It’s obvious we can’t leave. With my morning coffee in hand I step onto the dock, and notice we are at an odd angle. Our half inch nylon stern line has parted from the pounding while I slept. I make a mental note to allow more slack, double the critical lines and look into chaffing protection. This may also explain why we had the free dock to ourselves. Linda and I study our charts and current tables while waiting for the fog to lift, but I know we will leave when the fog is gone not when the current is going the right way. Our plan is to head north across the eastern end of the Strait of Juan De Fuca. We will go through Cattle Pass and into the protected waters between San Juan and Lopez Islands.
The run today is a distance of about 25 miles, just a little further than when we came from Deception Pass. The kids are still asleep when we cast off two hours later and quietly slide past the anchored boats. The wind as usual is not much help, We motor-sail most of this leg, mostly because the sails help stabilize us and reduce the swell induced rolling.
Motoring across the east end of the Strait of Juan De Fuca is rolly polly. There was little wind but soon we unfurled the sails trying to reduce the nauseating motion, it didn't help much.
At last Cattle Pass and no more waves or fog. Fortunately the tide was incoming or we would've been stuck outside for awhile. As it was we shot through. Lopez Island on right, Orcas Island dead ahead, Friday Harbor on left will take about half an hour with the currents help.
Click below to see satellite view of Port Townsend
