Visit Olga on Orcas Island and ride your bikes up Mt Constitution or Moran Park

Olga offered us an empty dock, 

so we gladly accepted.

 On other visits, we turned away vowing to return when there was room.  The private mooring field is peppered with so many buoys it demands full attention slipping through.

Olga public dock has room for about three boats on each side, all buoys are private.

The dinghy's at Olga belong to locals, there is no access to beach except, a nasty slippery, very steep, and thorny trail in brush under ramp.

The sign says it all

       On shore at the top of the Olga ramp is a flagpole, and a memorial bench. 

There are a couple blocks, if that, of roads to walk, some say private drive, keep out.  There is no bathroom.  The old store across the street was closed up many years ago, and the property is for sale, but the little post office is in business.  Up a moderately steep hill about 1/4-1/3 mile is a restaurant on the main road. Some other boaters made the hike and reported good food.  Other than private homes, most which look like second homes, there is no other business.  That's it for Olga.  I'm glad we finally stopped by Olga, but except for a nice dock to tie up to, and a pleasant little bay to paddle and dinghy sail, what can I say.

       On a much more positive note, I rode my bicycle around a little, and after checking my maps I realized that Olga is the shortest and most convenient starting point for a grueling ride to the top of Mt Constitution.  7 miles versus 7.5 starting at Rosario.  I did not make the ride due to being late in the day, but I plan to come back and give it a try.

         Next time we are in the area and need a place to spend the night, I'm sure we will stop again.

Oh, and we saw a little baby deer on the beach, way to go Olga!

Note: I am reluctant to review or report on businesses that may or may not be around in the future when readers might come across my post, not realizing the information is sadly outdated or just plain incorrect.

That being said, I have heard that a coop has reopened (2023/2024?) the old store/deli at the top of the gangplank in Olga. I have also been told that there is a new restaurant in West Sound, across from the county dock.  

To the best of my knowledge, the San Juans are still subject to tides, currents, puffins and the occasional seal pup and orca in unexpected places.

Click below for a satellite view of Olga

My get home system is finally put to use.

 More than a decade ago I installed an outboard bracket to carry the dinghy motor on the back of my  40-year-old Nordic Tug. 

 The transom-mounted bracket allows me to store the 5hp Honda and easily transfer it to and from the dinghy.  Thinking way ahead, I mounted the bracket down low  so that if I ever needed an emergency push or trolling kicker, I would lower the motor, connect the fuel line and away we'd go.

Well it finally happened. 

 Last month, the tug made a strange sound so I shut off the motor and began drifting.  Because I had forgotten how the mechanism worked and fiddling with it while hanging over the transom was very uncomfortable, it took me a few minutes to get the prop in the water and the fuel line connected.  After about ten pulls the motor came to life and we were ready to go.

Holding the cowling 

Facing backward, I pointed it at what I guessed was straight ahead.  I shoved the gearshift into forward and twisted the tiller to a medium-fast idle.  At first, we didn't move but then it was apparent our nearly ten thousand pounds was actually making headway.  Because I was hanging over the back and couldn't see where we were going, I yelled to Linda, asking if we were pointed okay or if I should try steering.  Her answer was not helpful.

I made my way inside the cabin and determined we were indeed headed for a mud flat.  I turned the wheel and observed an agonizing slow response.  The gps showed we were making 4 mph but our smallish rudder is designed to have the force of the diesel engine pushing our 18" prop wash against it. The outboard is far over on one side and actually behind the rudder.  Never the less we began turning away from the shallows.

So,  the system worked.  I can't say I am impressed with performance but it will beat using the canoe paddle that I keep on board.  The two gallon fuel tank will be very limiting and I am aware that the outboard can't be lowered with the dinghy on its davits.  

I know others have get-home plans and motors, I thought some might benefit from hearing my experience.
Oh, and the tug, as always, it was fine.

San Juan Islands Cruise Starting at Cornet Bay in Deception Pass State Park

This post first appeared in the web site in  2011. Parking and launching fees at Cornet Bay have since gone up a little.

       Camping, traveling, vacation rentals, condo's and resorts on a budget, 

is it even possible? 

Yes it is. Inexpensive (cheap) vacations are possible if you, "go by boat" or yacht as some say. The trick is to already own the yacht and then camp on it at all the great places.  Think of it like going to RV parks only without the garish over the top  land schooners parked in the best spots.

           Okay, no more promos for boat camping.  Assuming you are a newbie to the San Juan Island boating group, you may be wanting to know why you should start at Deception Pass State Park if you are headed for the islands.  

The Simple answer is, the park has the best all weather, all tide launching ramp and long term parking lot. Plus,  Deception Pass is one of the places to see that you should not miss, and the Cornet Bay dock is a wonderful place to hangout overnight, or for a few days or longer. 

The Google photos above with labels will help you to orient yourself. Because slow boats must time their passage through the pass you may find yourself spending the night at the dock.  I always plan to spend the first night at the dock because after driving six hours, rigging and launching my sailboat, it's late and I'm tired.  My crew can fish, hike and race around in the dinghy while I take a break.  The next day I'm ready to go, and cast off at slack tide which may be at noon or 9am.  The time doesn't matter, I'm on vacation time now.

The launch fee is around $6, parking is $10/day and staying at the dock is 50 cents a foot. The ramp has three or four lanes with floats. Trailer parking is abundant and long-term.  You can anchor out for free, anytime, anywhere. There is a fist of quarters shower that short times you in the bathroom.  Lots of locals and campers come down to fish off the floats, but boats tying up have priority. Try explaining that to a fisherman.

It is a very short run out the pass, under the bridge and into the Strait of Juan De Fuca, where high seas or fog may cause you to change your plans, if so, just head the other way to Swinomish Channel.  If you have never cruised the channel before, do it for sure, it only adds about 15 miles to your trip and is well worthwhile.  Or when you come back a week or so later, use the channel, but try to work it into your plans.  FYI, your boat will need to make 10 mph or better to overcome the worst of pass current, otherwise you will have to time it like the rest of us.  Of course with a favorable current you can rush on through, but the standing waves can be pretty big at times and an open bow boat will seem like a poor choice. The pass is narrowest directly under the bridge, so you will have a fast current for only a very short distance.

Dock and ramp at Deception Pass State Park (Cornet Bay)

You should run through Deception Pass for the beauty of it.

  Next door is Canoe Pass,

 and while navigable, should only be used at slack water, is very narrow  and sight distance restricted right under the bridge, it is a little creepy when the whirlpools turn on and begin spinning you towards the rock cliff face.  Sometimes we take our 9' dinghy with its 7.5 hp motor around Pass Island and wave to the gawkers on the bridge, but when the flood or ebb starts cascading, a tiny little dinghy has no business in either pass.

         When you come back a week or so later and are ready to head home you can wait for slack water outside the pass at the dock in Sharpe Cove or Bowman Bay. 

           I always spend my last night at the dock, and get a good rest for the long drive home.
Here's a link to the marine parks locating map  marine parks maps etc. click here

Tall ship ghosting through the pass at high slack water (photo taken from the bridge)

 In 60 minutes standing waves 3-6 feet tall may form and the current will be 5-8 mph

I would be remiss to not point out that most boats can transit the pass a good deal before or after slack water, slack water is simply zero current like in the picture.  Also, don't forget Swinomish Channel is just around the corner and avoids the pass altogether.

Click below for a satellite view of Deception Pass

Roche Harbor Marina Map

Thanks to Roche  Harbor Resort for letting us use their area map, it also shows where the Mausoleum and Sculpture Garden/Park are located.

Our 2019  cruise guide has this updated map and the new  Friday Harbor map as well. It's pretty helpful when getting a slip assignment to be able to

 check the map and know exactly where to go.

2019 - San Juan Island's Cruise guide (at Amazon)

Roche Harbor marina map

Click below for a satellite view of Roche Harbor

Where are the mainland Boat Ramps for your San Juan Islands Vacation Cruise?

          Taking your boat for a camping vacation cruise isn't expensive or difficult if you know the places to go and what to do.

 If you're going to camp on the boat or on shore, I recommend that you start out in Bellingham or Deception Pass State Park.  But if you need or want a campground with a launch ramp for your home base, you should reserve a site at Washington Park in Anacortes.

Boat ramps with parking:

#1  Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham  -  unlimited free parking, fresh water rinse hoses, guest docks, restaurants, nice showers (you will be glad you began and ended your trip here) 

• (updated 10/1/21) I just became aware that Squalicum Harbor has changed their free parking to FIVE days maximum. This is bad news for some of us that like to take 7-10 day cruises. I recommend calling them.  Cornet Bay requires payment but at least has longer parking.

#2  Cornet Bay at Deception Pass State Park -  lots of pay to park, guest docks, nice place to hang out before, after and during your vacation. Only minutes from Anacortes.

#3  La Conner (south end of Swinomish Channel) single lane city ramp, float, on street parking, cheap fees, nearby guest docks. Current to deal with.

#4  Washington Park in Anacortes  -  limited pay parking, double ramps with float but open to swell and waves from Geumes Channel,  no guest docks,  very nice on site campground, easy bike ride or hike to ferry.

#5  Twin Bridges (north end Swinomish Channel) County ramp, limited pay parking, small float that's dry at low tide, security risk area  NOTE: It's just a little further to La Conner and well worth it!

#6  Oak Harbor  -  free ramp, $2/day parking, guest docks nearby, full marina services nearby, long walk to town!  long ways to San Juans for slow boats.

#7  Cap Sante in Anacortes should not be listed because they have a sling, not a ramp, Cap Sante would be a second choice if you want to sling your boat in. Guest docks and big RV or trailer pay parking lot. (you can spend a lot of bucks here)

Note: Taking your boat and trailer by ferry to the islands is probably a bad idea because ramps and parking are inferior or not available.  However, launching a skiff you can muscle around off the beach at a county park with no float is very doable.

Click on picture to make it bigger!

For first timers, see articles titled  "San Juan Islands for First Timers"
Click below

First Timers Itinerary

Click below for a satellite view of Squalicum Harbor

Is disaster simply one little mistake away?

It was a tranquil Sunday afternoon, the kind where the air feels warm and still, and the water gently laps against the hull—a perfect day for leisurely boating. We were relaxing on deck, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere, when the gentleman moored behind us untied his lines. As he cast off, he mentioned he was making a quick stop at the pumpout station on the adjacent dock before heading home. I gave him a casual wave from the cockpit and returned to my magazine, assuming it was just another routine departure.

Moments later, my attention was abruptly drawn away by the unmistakable roar of an engine revving at full throttle. A feeling of unease crept over me. “Something’s wrong,” I said to Linda, glancing up. “Look over there.”

Sure enough, the boater who had just left was now in the next fairway, visibly struggling against a powerful current. His boat, a thirty-footer, was being dragged toward the aluminum footbridge connecting the walkways. He was clearly in trouble. “He’s not going to make the turn,” I muttered, my concern growing by the second.

Then, to my astonishment, he made a desperate decision—he gunned the engine, slamming it into full throttle in an attempt to execute a rapid 180-degree turn before colliding with the walkway. For a moment, it seemed like he might succeed. The boat narrowly missed the footbridge and almost completed the turn, but the momentum was too great. Instead of cleanly maneuvering away, the vessel barreled into the dock adjacent to the pumpout station. With the engines screaming, the impact was forceful enough to propel the boat nearly three-quarters of the way onto the dock, its bow perched at a steep, precarious angle.

Panic seemed to set in. Desperate to correct the situation, the boater threw the engine into reverse, the sudden jolt pulling the vessel off the dock and sending it sliding back into the water. Now facing the opposite direction, the boat roared backward—straight toward the footbridge. A heartbeat later, the sickening crunch of fiberglass meeting metal filled the air. The unmistakable sound of damage done. Then, finally, the engine fell silent.

The entire chaotic episode had unfolded in mere moments, as quickly as an engine could rev and a boat could collide. By the time I and a few other onlookers hurried over with boat hooks, the vessel was once again floating peacefully next to the pumpout, as if nothing had happened. But the damage was done.

What does one even say to someone who has just put their boat through such a disastrous sequence of missteps, each error compounding upon the last? There is no easy way to soften the blow of such an expensive and humiliating lesson.

Speaking for myself—and likely for many other seasoned skippers—I can admit that I, too, have misjudged currents or the handling of my boat. I have, in moments of desperation, gunned the engine to avoid a collision, and I may have even suffered a few minor bumps as a result. Fortunately, I’ve never caused significant damage—or perhaps I’ve just blocked those memories from my mind.

Experience is a relentless teacher, and sometimes, the lessons it imparts come at a steep price. In this case, the takeaway is clear: Never attempt to turn around upstream of an obstacle you absolutely do not want to hit. And if you do, for the love of fiberglass, do not hit it at full throttle.

With hindsight, two alternative courses of action present themselves. First, the boater could have turned around outside the fairway and backed down toward the pumpout, though this would still have carried the risk of losing control in the strong current. A second, and arguably much wiser, choice would have been to seek out a different location or simply wait for a tide change. Sometimes, the best course of action is no action, or to acknowledge the conditions and exercise patience. When it comes to boating, luck should never be the primary strategy.

Step by Step guide and Itinerary for making that Dream Boat Trip to the San Juan Islands

     This cruise itinerary is for the first timer with the boat on a trailer. The novice skipper with family for crew will find this article contains just what's needed to get going on that long talked about trip to the San Juans. While this is a step by step action plan to follow, some skippers do not need all the steps and prodding and so they should skip ahead to      Day #1.  for the daily itinerary  

For the rest of us, these steps are important, so I've numbered them.
  Before you go

1. Right now, go put two marks on the calendar. Mark the day of departure from home and one week or so later mark the day your returning. Do it now or forever hold your peace and admit your not really going boat camping in the San Juans.
2. Go to your local chandlery or go online and purchase a big color map or chart of the San Juans. I'm not telling you which one, it doesn't matter, just big and one you like to look at.
3. Got the map? Good now nail it to the wall where you can see it all the time. Do it now!  OK, the hardest part is over, you have now made a commitment to yourself and crew. Your really going.  Kick back a little, relax, do some day dreaming.  Your trip (cruise, vacation, what ever you want to call it) is already well underway. By now you should be  getting into the  excitement that comes with planning and preparations.    Note:   Don't let worry and stress build up, your really going to enjoy this outing and it will be easy, trust me  (heh, heh, heh)  Relaxing good times should be part of the  process that started when you made the X on the calendar. Remember, on this cruise there are no deadlines to meet, no times to beat, no "sorry no vacancy's" to worry about. You are on your own schedule to do as you please. What could be better besides a gourmet chef and staff.  Study the map with your crew, locate Friday Harbor, Jones Island, and Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham. Do some internet searches, read peoples reviews.
4. Start compiling a list of supply's and provisions that you think you need. Click here for help with that list >>  Cruisers Packing List this list may be a little too much, so pick and choose.
5. Start making a list of boat and trailer, must do's (like greasing the wheel bearings) I mention wheel bearings because there are a few "must do's" that will potentially ruin your plans, having a bearing go out from your neglect is avoidable, so are boat motor issues. We once went with an untested, worrisome diesel motor, and sure enough it quit, but because of suspected problems I had mounted an outboard bracket and brought my trusty 7.5 hp Honda along which not only saved the trip, but allowed us to extend it a few days.  Another time with a different boat I towed a dinghy which sole purpose was to carry a spare outboard just in case.   Another mistake not to make is inadequate packing for inclement weather, (hope for warm sunny days, but plan for cold windy rain).  Don't forget seasickness pills (Dramamine)  or other medication, one persons needs could ruin the trip. There must some other must do's that are particular to your family??? Spare tire for trailer! Hmm!
6.  #5 was a downer, lets lighten up.  You need to bring an ice chest if your boat has none, maybe two, plan on ice lasting 3-4 days and then resupply time.  For a food menu, you should plan to eat well, especially if you have bad weather when hot food hits the spot and improves spirits. Sandwiches are easy to prepare and bring lots of trail mix and snacks.  You will need lots of water, don't plan on any being available once you shove off. We bring our water in 5 gallon jugs and pour it into smaller bottles
7. You will need a propane cook stove and fuel bottles to last entire trip (propane is $7+ in the islands)
8. Garbage:  I need to mention it now after suggesting you bring all the junk food.  Your little boat will quickly become overrun with trash, bring bags, the outside islands have no garbage service. Think about all that convenience food packaging material I just told you to bring.  Some of the packaging may be left at home. Prepare things in advance and freeze meals ready to go as they thaw (2-4 days in ice chest)
9. Under boat equipment, the list is very subjective so lets just list a few must haves.  PFD's all around and all coastie required equipment (whistle, type 4, fire ext., registration, lights, etc) Plus I think you need a minimum of two anchors and extra rode, extra fuel if your tank is small.  Your boat should have a range of 75 miles. The rule is 1/3 outbound, 1/3 to get back, 1/3 for reserve. It could be 25 miles between fuel stops, so a 75 mile range gives a good cushion. Many boaters simply tie 5 gallon jugs on deck.  If your boat is open and it really rains hard, bring a tarp and ropes to lash it down. You may sleep on shore so a tent is needed. You need a hand bilge pump and a bucket (they look like a big suction tube and flex hose.
10. Bring a GPS,  You can get by without one but they are fun and really are useful. Some phones have apps available. Bring your cell phone (they work good almost everywhere) Bring the map or chart nailed on the wall or better yet go buy a real navigation chart with depths and rocks all located.  Bring a compass (hand held is OK) Bring a vhf marine radio (you can buy a portable battery one for about $100.   
11. The boats loaded your ready to go. Don't forget to tell someone where your going, and when to call for help if you don't check in as planned. That person could be a friend or relative that doesn't panic over  icky weather reports.  They should call the San Juan County Sheriff or Coast Guard if needed, or someone you have prearranged to call, 911 works too. Remember, your plans may change as the week progresses, but you can check in with a cell phone call most of the time.

Time to go 

The blue line indicates general route, red dots are overnight stops. 80 miles

Squalicum Harbor Marina - red dots = boat ramp, restaurant, showers, parking, guest docks

1.   Day #1  Your destination is Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham. (not Anacortes) Squalicum has the best boat ramp around, and free long term parking for your trailer and tow rig. Cap Sante in Anacortes has a sling and pay to park.  You can arrive and take right off but I would plan to spend the first night at the guest dock or in your parked rig. Do not cast off unless you are sure you will have enough light to make it to your anchorage or marina. Navigating in the dark is risky business and requires more of you than you bargain for, and may easily become a really stressed vacation.  Its still daylight until around 9pm, so if you arrive around  6pm there is plenty of time to get the boat launched, go shopping, eat in a restaurant, hang out.  The marina has bathrooms, showers, lots and lots of parking.  If your the worrier on this trip and need to talk to people, you can call them during regular business hours.  The launch fee and guest dock payments are made at a self serve kiosk, you could arrive at midnight, its a 24 hour deal.  No stress, just show with your boat.
2.   Day #2   In the morning, you can eat at the restaurant overlooking the marina next to the bathrooms, (the food is good and priced right) jump in the car and run to Walmart or just cast off at sun up. I like to walk around and talk to other boaters coffee cup in hand.
3. Your destination is Echo Bay at Sucia Island, its about 20 miles so you will have plenty of time even if you hang around Squalacum until early afternoon.   If you get there a little earlier you will have time to hike and explore, or maybe first go to Fossil bay where you may get a spot at the dock.  Of course tying up to an anchor buoy or the dock requires a fee whereas                                                                                   anchoring is free.

4. 

   Sucia Island with Echo Bay and Fossil Bay marked with red dots

5.   Day #3   On this day you may want to stick around Sucia for some exploring, fishing, or kayaking if it suits you. You could easily spend several days just hiking.  
6. Lets up anchor at noon, our destination is Jones Island, a distance of only 12 miles.  On the way to Jones you may want or need to stop at West Beach resort/marina on Orcas.  West beach is right on the way and wont add much time or distance to this leg.  At West Beach you can get fuel, waffle ice cream cones, ice and groceries. West Beach is just past Point Doughty on Orcas (check your chart/map and find pt Doughty) Did you bring binoculars, they will be helpful in spotting some far off places across the water and West Beach is one of those places? Once again, like Sucia, if you get to Jones early you may get a space at the dock, but you can always snag a buoy or anchor for free. Jones is pretty small but about perfect, you can beach comb, explore, kayak or hike trails, circling the island in about an hour.
7. Jones Island
   

   

   Jones Island

8. Plan to stay a day or two at Jones it could easily be your favorite stop, it is mine.
9.   Day #4   But it could be day 5 or 6 if your getting into the boat traveling thing.
10. Once again there is no need to take off early, but by now you may have noticed that currents play a big roll in passage times, and fuel used. I check my current charts and then ignore them mostly, but at least I know what to expect. Leave Jones Island in your wake and set course for Friday Harbor, no need to rush, its only 5 miles and they never turn boaters away. You can make a reservation for a slip in advance but there really is no need and its nice to not have a rigid schedule.  You can also just stop by for a few hours for free and walk around town, buy souvenirs and provisions and then move on.  I recommend on your first trip that you spend the night at Friday Harbor, visit the Whale Museum, hang around town and waterfront goings on, eat at the many places, and above all by now you will be wanting a shower, which is available right on the docks.  When you arrive near the breakwater, you can call the Harbormaster on the radio or use your cell phone, or simply tie up at the outer dock, sometimes they have a little harbormaster shed office out on the end and you can talk across the water.  It's all very simple and low key, even after hours  when the security people will take care of you. One visit we rented a slip for two nights while we bicycled around San Juan Island.
11. Friday harbor 

    

    Friday Harbor 

12.   Day #5    Check out time is after lunch sometime so again, no rush. Set course for Rosario in East Sound on Orcas Island.  The distance is about 11 miles and you may end up with a modest current either for or against your plans, you may want to arrange your transit according to favorable currents.  See current guide info right here  >> Current Atlas  <<    Around Friday Harbor is a lot of boat traffic and you will see more than one ferry for sure, don't worry, just use your common sense.  On your way to Rosario you may want to take a little side trip over to Olga for a short stop over at the public dock, (Olga is also on Orcas just south of Rosario) when you get to Rosario you will be able rent a slip, hang on a buoy or anchor out. Rosario resort has some nice grounds, restaurants, provision store, fuel, and tours of the Mansion turned museum. Because you will probably have time to kill I would seriously consider showing up later in the day or making your visit a two hour stop over and then move on to another stop for the night.
13. Rosario picture 

    

    Rosario (Mansion/Museum is in lower left, marina restaurant at top

14. An alternate stop would be past Rosario at Eastsound where they have a public dock.
15. Another alternate stop just a little further, but heading more toward your car at Squalicum would be Pelican Beach on Cypress Island.  Pictorial  >> Pelican Beach pictorial  << Pelican Beach has about 4 or 5 buoys and we have always been able to squeeze in and anchor.  In a pinch you can run half a mile down to Eagle Harbor where they have 18 or so buoys. BTW Cypress is DNR land so everything is free (no buoy or camping fees) If you are into hiking, this is probably the best around. The beach is a favorite for kayakers from Bellingham and Anacortes, expect to enjoy good conversation around the many campfires lining the beach.
16. Pelican Beach map here  

    

    Pelican Beach on northeast end of Cypress Island

    
    
17.   Day #6   : Today's destination is Squalicum Harbor and head for home. It's about 15 miles so it will take a some time.  By now you should have a pretty good idea of your boat's ability to get around and deal with wind and currents. Bellingham Bay seems to go on forever, especially when the elements are lined up against you. 
18. If you have time for a quick lunch stop on the way, you should really consider dropping hook in Inati Bay on Lummi Island
19. Inati bay map 

    

    Inati Bay on the southeast side of Lummi Island

20.   Plan your departure from Cypress so you arrive back at Squalicum with time to load up and head for home, or I recommend you plan one more night on the boat at the visitor/guest docks at Squalicum Harbor.  This way, you will be showered, fed, and refreshed in the morning and have the whole day to load up and drive towards home. In my opinion, driving home in the dark after a long last day of boating is no way to wind up a relaxing vacation.

That's it

• I hope I was able to give you the incentive, motivation, and pertinent information to get going on that first trip to the San Juan Islands.  My recommendations are by no means all that there is to see and do. Please do some research and modify my suggestions to suit your situation, for instance it is entirely possible to stay at resorts and eat in restaurants every night. The more budget-minded may choose to anchor out everywhere.  (Yes you can anchor next to the docks at Friday Harbor and then paddle over to their dinghy dock, no charge) You may also start and end at Cap Sante, La Conner, Deception Pass, or even start out far, far south in Olympia like we did once.

Click below for a look at the marina and ramp in Bellingham