Explore the San Juan Islands with expert guides, detailed maps, and comprehensive boating itineraries. Learn how to utilize the tides and currents to your advantage. Discover the best parks for camping, anchoring, and hiking. Experience the charm of Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor, then relax in a tranquil, secluded cove for the perfect getaway.
++++ ============================= All Posts Below
A few years back, I hiked the trail from Pelican Beach to the top of Eagle Bluff on Cypress Island, taking pictures every few minutes along the way.
The resulting pictorial is a pretty good synopsis for those who can't make the journey themselves. See the Eagle Bluff Pictorial hike here.
I decided to do the same thing on Matia, but with a little change-up.
First, I hiked the trail snapping away with wild abandon, then I jumped in the dinghy and hugged the shore, continuing to take pictures while I circled the island. Then I deleted most of what I had. The results are below; you decide if it was worthwhile.
The blue marker on the far left marks Rolfe cove, and where we begin our visit to Matia
First off, exit the dock!
The little four boat float, may be full, but there are two buoys and room for a few boats to anchor. In a pinch you can anchor in the much larger cove at the other end of the island and do this hike/dinghy tour in reverse.
Boater park fees are a great deal for what we get in return.
The trail starts at the top of ramp beyond the small picnic campground area. Matia is unique in that fires are not allowed anywhere, and pets are restricted from trail system.
click where it says read more for the rest of the picture tour!
Everyone knows about Rosario - Friday Harbor - Roche Harbor and Sucia Island. Of course, they are famous and not to be missed.
But some of the best San Juan area destinations are much less traveled. And even less talked about.
Out of the way places have secrets where a little local knowledge may turn a ho-hum cruise into a truly memorable event. I am listing and describing some of our favorites, feel free to make them yours too.
Not in any order or preference!
#1Saddlebag Island
At the top of Guemes Channel northeast of Anacortes in Padilla Bay is diminutive Saddlebag Island State Park.
Saddlebag has only 24 acres, its distinctive dog-bone shape creates two teeny bays. The north one suitable for two anchored boats, or only one if the skipper hogs the middle on a long rode. We have always been able to anchor fifty feet from shore. The dinghy ride is short and sweet, the gravel beach is friendly and steep. The bay catches a little flotsam and wayward seaweed so an aroma may be mixed in with treasures you find.
The narrow center isthmus holds a small campground and outhouse (newer). Hiking the shoreline trail is easy and follows a handy figure eight shape affording views in all directions. Being less than two miles from Anacortes makes Saddlebag an easy kayak destination.
The waters on the east side of Saddlebag are shallow and rock strewn, circling the island is a white-knuckle event at lower tides. Your dinghy or kayak would be a better choice than the mother ship if you are determined to gunk-hole.
We stop at Saddlebag for lunch and a hike, overnight if it is late, or just a quick anchor and hike. We always see something new, and never go away unhappy.
Saddlebag may only be rated as five star, you will be glad you stopped by.
This is not all the parks, just the ones you may want to make part of your cruising. It's unlikely you can visit all in one trip and still do a decent job of sightseeing. You should plan multiple visits to the San Juans.
Many people choose Jones as their favorite for just hanging for a few days, so Jones is first.
For hiking, Sucia, or Pelican Beach on Cypress Island are the best, but all the parks have hiking trails.
Many people choose Jones as their favorite for just hanging for a few days, so Jones is first.
For hiking, Sucia, or Pelican Beach on Cypress Island are the best, but all the parks have hiking trails.
Some parks are in a convenient location when you need to spend the night and you're between destinations, Saddle Bag, Eagle Harbor, and Odlin would fit this description.
Most parks with docks have picnic tables on the floats, which are very handy for extending your living area, socializing, and meeting other boaters.
For marinas/etc. where you can get fuel and provisions try this list >> Marinas - fuel - beer and ice - slips for rent
Jones Island
James Island
Clark Island
Doe Island (possibly still gone) we miss it
Obstruction Pass
Pelican Beach
Eagle Harbor
Cypress Head
Matia
Patos
Sucia
Stuart Island (Prevost & Reid Harbor)
Spencer Spit
Odlin County Park
Washington Park
Deception Pass Park
Saddlebag Island
Sidney Spit Marine Park (Canada)
Click here to go to complete description and maps of above listed parks
These are special places to go and great things to do that our years of cruising in the San Juans have rewarded us with.
Friday Harbor - Turtleback Mountain - Jones Island - Sculpture Park at Roche Harbor - Youngs Hill - Turn Point Lighthouse - China Caves - Matia Island Rain Forest Trail - Patos Island Lighthouse Tour - Inati Bay & Lummi Island Campground - Vendovi Island Preserve - Eagle Bluff On Cypress - Fort Whitman On Goat Island - Rosario Beach & The Maiden of Deception Pass - Victoria & Butchart Gardens
Some of the very best places are walks or hikes that are off the beaten path and seldom visited. I have listed them in somewhat of a great circle to help you stay oriented, but you will not be able to visit all of them in one day. I suggest that you mark them on a paper map or chart for later reference.
Check out these places too. Not really must see places but still wonderful exploring and gunkholing places.little coves and back doors
Picking the best of anything is asking for an argument but I thought folks planning a visit would benefit from the discussion.
Let's start by listing my choices in order of best first, first because they have overnight docks, followed by some pros and cons and a few real world comments. (hopefully I haven't omitted your favorite) Keep in mind, we go to all the parks and don't dislike any but there is no doubt some parks are five star and some are not depending on what we are doing or the weather during that particular cruise.
For a more detailed review of the San Juan area marine parks including maps try this post. marine parks
parks with docks
Jones Island
Matia
Sucia - Fossil Bay
James Island
Stuart Island (Prevost & Reid Harbor)
Sharpe Cove and Cornet Bay at Deception Pass
parks without docks
Saddlebag Island
Pelican Beach
Turn Island
Eagle Harbor
Cypress Head
Patos
Sucia (Echo and Shallow bays)
Spencer Spit
Odlin County Park (has 2 hr dock)
Clark Island
Doe Island
Obstruction Pass
Sidney Spit Marine Park (Canada) (has overnight dock)
Washington Park (launching ramp only dock)
San Juan County Park
Shaw Island Park
1 - Jones Island is my number one choice and here's why
Pros:
bigger but not biggest dock
protected bay
great dinghy beach with a couple tidepools
anchor buoys and lots of room to anchor
running water and four nice nearby composters
hiking the many loop trails at Jones never gets boring
tiny deer, many tame, are unique to Jones
dock is very close to camp sites for evening fires
It's easy to go to the marine parks and jostle with the other boaters at the dock or scramble amongst a minefield of anchors and buoys. Sometimes seclusion and communing with nature is simply a matter of going around the point.
Low tide and still lots of water for anchoring, but open to swell from Rosario Strait.
As with all gunkholing and exploring, you must be vigilant, watch for rocks, know your tide range and proceed dead slow or pay the price. Speaking of paying >>> paying the price Suggested backdoors, (none preferred over another) and places to get away from other boaters.
Matia Island: Matia Cove is a fairly long indent (see pic) at the east end of the island and holds several boats. An unnamed cove is just around the corner from Rolfe Cove where Matias dock is located. Both these coves offer anchorage away from the usual hustle and bustle.
Sucia Island: Snoring Bay is between Echo Bay and Fossil Bay on Sucia and Ewing Cove is accessed via Echo bay on the northeast side. Both coves offer access to the Sucia trail system, and may have anchor buoys still intact.
Saddlebag Island: This state park is so little visited, you may consider the entire island a backdoor, but there is a second minor cove on the south side with a great view of Cap Sante should the northside be full up.
Inati Bay on Lummi Island is located on the southeast side of Lummi Island. This medium size cove holds a handful of boats and is a perfect storm refuge when you are caught on your way to or from Squalicum Harbor.
Cypress Head: The normally used cove with anchoring and buoys is on the north side of the isthmus and open to passing wakes, but the long cove on the south side of the isthmus is easily navigated and may be calm. Watch your depth here.
Doe Island State Park: The last we looked (2015) the float was still gone but you can anchor here in relative peace and protection.
East Sound: If you're at Eastsound (the city) and it gets dark, you can anchor in Judd Bay on the far north end (left side) of East Sound. You will be a long dinghy ride from the Eastsound dock, which does not allow overnighting. Anchoring near the county dock is liable to be rolly after dark.
Roche Harbor: If crowds drive you bonkers and you want to run away, just run two miles to Westcott or Garrison Bay. Anchor anywhere but watch your depth and don't block access. You wont be totally secluded or alone, but you will be away from the mob at Roche.
Smallpox Bay: This small bay is on the Haro Strait side of San Juan Island just a few miles south of Roche Harbor (scoot through Mosquito Pass) it's a dinghy ride to shore at this San Juan County Park where campers watch for orca's.
There are lots more hidden places, too many to list but you can use the search box for them. Search - coves, bays, anchoring, camping, parks, things to do, places to go, etc.
You can anchor off to one side virtually anywhere but you may suffer wakes. I left out well known places like Blind Bay, Fisherman Bay, Parks Bay. which will all be crowded. I wanted to suggest mostly secluded easily overlooked locations that will be appreciated by the discerning recluse.
Explore hidden coves and discover the best things to do in your boat while cruising the Salish Sea
The difference between a truly wonderful vacation and a ho-hum boat ride is the memorable experiences and special places visited along the way. These are some of our favorite haunts and things to do. Maybe some will become your favorites as well.
Matia Island one-mile loop trail
This easy one-mile loop immerses you deeply into the shaded forest the minute you take your first steps. Towering trees, oversized ferns, and thick mosses line the trail. Our first walk many years ago was so serene and calming that even our young kids were quiet and talked in whispers. Matia Island pictorial
Pygmy deer on Jones Island
The northwest is full of wildlife and deer are everywhere, or so it seems sometimes. However, apparently, the many deer on Jones Island have developed to a much smaller size. Even the older bucks with big racks are only about waist-high. Many of the deer are tame, and some are downright annoying. One time a deer met me at the water's edge as I came ashore in the dinghy. Several times deer have joined us around our campfires looking for handouts and letting the kids rub their heads and pet them. I remember once a spike kept crowding too close to the fire, he was intent on getting at a bag of corn curls. It is against park rules to feed the animals so I don't know how they learned to expect treats from boaters. Jones Island deer
Deception Pass State Park
While Deception Pass isn't located within San Juan County, any boating enthusiast would be remiss not to include it in their cruising itinerary. In fact, Cornet Bay, with its well-facilitated ramp, serves as a prime launch point for those embarking on their nautical adventures. But, here's a piece of advice – don't just launch and rush through; take the time to savor the breathtaking scenery.
Consider planning part of your voyage around the four daily occurrences of slack tide. At slack tide, the turbulent waters temporarily calm, providing an excellent opportunity for exploration. A mere quarter-mile beyond the pass, still within the park's boundaries, you'll discover Sharpe Cove. Here, you can moor your vessel at the floating dock, and at the head of the ramp stands the remarkable Maiden of Deception Pass.
This post is written to help new cruisers headed to the San Juan's needing the same simple answers we needed.
From time to time I refresh my thinking and remember our first visit nearly thirty years ago. Specifically what a pain it was not knowing the simplest answers to questions many of us take for granted today.
I define the San Juan cruising area not by county or even country, but rather by places we want to visit and spend some time. But that also means, places we have the capability to get to without too much effort or time. So that being stated, I think of Port Townsend and Deception Pass Park (Cornet Bay), and Swinomish Channel as our loosely defined southern boundary. I think of Vancouver BC and Nanaimo as our northern most point, and everything in between Vancouver Island and the mainland completing the east west box. Keep in mind, with a day or two extra, you can run down to Olympia or up to Princess Louisa Inlet.
For this discussion, we are sticking to the
core San Juan Island area and what you need to get there.
Obvious (to some) Cruising Basics
You need a boat, but you can rent a sail or powerboat in Anacortes or Bellingham if you prefer, and it doesn't take much experience to qualify.
Size matters? yes and no. Bigger is more comfy, costly and feels imminently safer in a storm. As size goes up, so do your skill requirements. Once past about thirty five feet you will find you don't fit at some docks and fuel burns at over twenty five gallons an hour. Smaller is better at times. Eighteen foot ski and fishing boats or day sailors are very easy to get in and out at virtually all places but with all your food and gear, you could be crowded on board. When packing and provisioning, be honest and admit you don't really need all that stuff you take car camping. Above all, don't let your lack of a perfect boat cause you not to go. Take what you have, you can make it work.
Bring a dinghy, even a two person inflatable kayak is okay. You need a way to get to shore where there are no docks. You don't have to carry the dinghy on board, you can tow it everywhere you go. Yes you can beach your runabout and let the tide leave you dry on a beach but bringing a dinghy is so much easier. (update 2025) Lately we have seen inflatable paddle boards used as dinghys and we have done it ourselves so we know they work.
Sleep on board, at anchor, at the dock, or in the many park campgrounds. (there are about twenty marine campgrounds, you can camp at a different park every night) If preferred, you can spend every night at a marina or resort and sleep on shore.
The best weather will be in July and August, but the shoulder seasons have less people and okay weather too.
I suggest you plan a week, but you can make a weekend work. If you have a comfortable all weather boat, spend the summer.
If you rent, don't forget you have to park your car(s) If you trailer, plan on a daily parking fee of around $12. (Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham is free, even long term) Call harbormaster for current rules.
See this posting for launch ramps. ---launch ramps with long term parking This is probably the only real planning decision you need to make before you go, but we have changed our planned take off point as we drove up the highway. Do not start your San Juan cruise down south in Olympia, Seattle or Everett or Port Townsend or Port Angeles. If you do you will spend much of your time motoring long distances (both ways) My advice is to start in Bellingham or Anacortes using one of the ramps from the list above.
You need with you on the boat, a chart, or you will get lost, count on it. You should have a list of parks, marinas and resources preferably marked on your navigation chart. Get this chart. Noaa # 18421 - We use noaa chart # 18421 you can see it by clicking here or anywhere charts are sold. Navigation charts do not show what's on shore, (roads, city's, marinas, parks, etc) so we carry a highway map as well.
Don't run out and buy an expensive chart plotter. At minimum, you need a paper chart, a portable GPS and a compass, your smart phone will probably do. All boats need a depth sounder or you are risking an expensive grounding.
Sample itinerary: #1. Begin at Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham (open 24/7).
2. Head for Friday Harbor and get a slip for your first night or every night (they take reservations).
3. Use Friday Harbor as your base, returning every night to your own slip with power, water, restrooms, on shore restaurants and entertainment.
This plan will work for virtually all boaters regardless of gear, experience or creature comfort requirements. None of the Marine State Parks have reserve-able docks or anchor buoys, everything is first come first gets it. This means you should plan on anchoring and using your dinghy, it also means when someone pulls out you may grab the spot at the dock. Rafting is the term used when several boats tie together at anchor or the dock.
Sample itinerary: #2. Begin at Squalicum again but this time head for Matia or Sucia.
Tie up to the dock at Fossil Bay (Sucia) or anchor. Sleep on the boat or camp on shore.
Next, Jump over to Stuart, repeat and then Roche Harbor or Jones, then to Friday Harbor, then Fisherman Bay. This itinerary will make sure you have a shower and food store available (Roche and Friday) when you really need and want both.
Fuel is readily available but you should try to have a minimum range of seventy five miles just to be sure should you encounter adverse conditions.
How many days you spend at each park is up to you, your car and trailer will be waiting in the free parking lot when you circle back to Bellingham.
You can do exactly the same cruise, but begin at Washington Park or Deception Pass (Cornet Bay) and perhaps change the order.
Search this website for other suggested itineraries. The possibilities are endless.
Get my San Juan Islands Cruise Guide, it has all the parks,
marinas, fuel, resources, phone numbers.
The guide is written specifically for visitors coming by boat. The companion book, the San Juan Islands Travel Guide is written for visitors coming by car.
Don't be cheap, the books cost less than a meal and will pay for themselves in saved frustration, making your cruise a real success.
Lastly, I can't address everything you may want or need to know in a single post, so I suggest you search this site and read some more articles. There are several with detailed day by day itineraries. Next, after becoming more knowledgeable about what and where you want to go and do, set aside a week and go. It really is that easy. The central cruising area is small enough that you can completely change your plans on the fly. You don't need reservations, you don't need a plan, you don't even need to bring food, just grab your gear and boat and hit the road. OH - bring some cash or plastic for, fuel and park fees and that food I just said you don't need.
If you happen to see us on Kraken somewhere, please say hello. We hope to be anchored in Fisherman Bay for the Lopez Island 4th of July fireworks show.
feel free to use the e-mail contact form with your questions
Dinghy's, tenders, shore boats come in a dizzying array of shapes and sizes, and the on going "best dinghy" argument is far from complete in my limited mind.
But right now now I'm wondering if the pointy end of a dinghy is really needed. I mean the part that is normally above water.
So here's the question, when comparing a 8' pointed dinghy to a 8' blunt nosed dinghy (some call them prams, others punts) do they both have the same load capacity? rowing, sailing ability? I think if you take a 8' flat nosed dinghy and add back what it would take to make a decent pointed end you would in essence then have a 9.5' (give or take some inches) pointed dinghy. Am I missing something here?
If I'm correct, it means a flat nosed dinghy of a given length may actually be a bigger boat (other issues and factors being equal) than a pointy dinghy of the same length overall. Right!
I think carried to extremes this line of thinking means a rectangle boat is bigger, followed by a square boat as being the best shape for big loads. So a barge may be the shape it is for good reason.
So this brings me full circle back to my earlier thought, is the pointy end of a dinghy really needed, or does it just make it a smaller boat?
This picture was taken of my son by his sister. Notice the oars reach his head. Sunset at Rolfe Cove on Matia
Have you
ever noticed someone parked beside the road, most likely broke down? Is everyone flying by, rushing to their next piece
of life?
Sometimes you will see a Good Samaritan
pulled over offering help. There’s a
certain concept floating around, that if you help someone out of the goodness
of your heart, it’s like putting money in the bank so to speak, money you will
draw upon in the future in your own time of need. Often called, “paying forward”
Sound about right, right. Well not
really, if you’re just banking goodwill, then it’s not really out of the
goodness of your heart.
Enough philosophy,
“paying it forward” is alive and well in the boating world, and especially
among cruisers.
If you are a newbie to
cruising or boating you may be hesitant to offer a helping hand, don’t be. The
people in distress will appreciate the offer and may well be hoping someone
will help them out. Help can be as simple as handling a dock line when they
arrive to helping rebuild a balky pump, or giving a tow.
Turn Point lighthouse on Stuart Island
Where I day-sail in Portland on the Columbia River, I have gotten into the habit of soft
grounding my boat off to one side near the entrance to my
marina.( I sail alone) I then take the sails down (no furlers for me) and get everything ready
to dock at my own slow pace without worrying about traffic or drifting away, because I'm stuck in the sand. When
everything is ship shape I lift the swing keel a bit and motor off the sand and proceed to my slip. Sometimes when I do this maneuver, boaters
knowing I’m obviously aground stop and ask if I need help. Were they paying it forward? was I receiving payment for my past good deeds?
Last summer at the Matia Island dock in the San Juan's,
a cruising
couple appeared at our boat early in the morning while I was having coffee in
the cockpit. They gave us a large chunk of warm carrot cake. It was delicious, hitting
the spot perfect. Possibly I was receiving some interest on my account, what do
you think?
Click below to see a satellite view of the Matia Island dock and Rolfe Cove
Planning Your San Juan Islands Cruise: Two Simple Steps to an Unforgettable Trip
Many
moons and several magnificent sunsets had passed when I finally embarked on the
grand adventure of planning a summer trip to the enchanting San Juan Islands.
However, fate had a different plan in store for me. Due to circumstances, we
found ourselves without a vessel.
We were at Yellowstone National Park, gazing
at the late spring snow. Time was slipping away, and our planned departure
date to the San Juans was fast approaching, yet we were still boatless. A
thousand miles away from home in a campground full of bears, I resorted to
browsing Craigslist on my laptop while clutching my cell phone in hand. It was
then that I stumbled upon a boat for sale posting that caught my attention.
To
my surprise, the boat in question was of the type I had previously owned. The
price was right, and a surge of confidence swept over me. I made a daring
decision to promise to buy it sight unseen upon our return in two weeks.
However, there was a hitch. The seller had just embarked on their own vacation
and would not be back for another three weeks. Oh, dear! That meant they would
only be back a week before our planned departure for the San Juans. Time seemed
to be playing a cruel game with our hopes.
Fast
forward three weeks later, and I found myself standing at the seller's
doorstep, armed with cash and eager to drive away with our trusted vessel for
the San Juan Islands. Back at home with our new boat and trailer, time was
short, and I could only manage a few essential tasks.
I diligently checked and
greased the bearings, stepped and unstepped the mast, and on the eve of our
departure, I hurriedly took her for a test run in the river to gauge the
motor's performance.
As fate would have it, the 7.5 Honda motor ran smoothly
for ten minutes before suddenly quitting. I drifted back towards the ramp in semi-darkness.
Moments before hauling her out, I tried the motor once more, and lo and behold,
it roared back to life. Quite perplexing, indeed.
Undeterred
by this glitch, we embarked on our journey to Anacortes the following day. Upon
launching at Twin Bridges on the Swinomish Channel, the motor graced us with
its smooth-running presence just long enough to steer us away from the dock and
set a course for Padilla Bay before surrendering once more.
Still undeterred,
we continued our voyage under sail, finally anchoring at Pelican Beach on
Cypress Island.
There, we reveled in the joys of a magnificent beach fire
before retiring for the night. Throughout the evening, my mind couldn't help
but wonder if the motor would start the next morning and if the capricious
currents and winds would carry us to our next destination at Matia or Sucia.
But
enough of my ramblings. We spent a glorious week in the San Juan Islands, and
to our relief, the motor never faltered again. It proved to be a reliable
workhorse that faithfully served us on several more boating expeditions in the
years to come. The initial mystery of its temporary failure remained unresolved.
As soon as we returned home, with plenty of summer still ahead, I wasted no
time in placing a Craigslist ad to sell the boat. I recouped my entire
investment, and as a bonus, I held onto the now trusty Honda outboard for many
years afterward.
Reflecting
upon this adventure, it became evident to me that setting a firm departure date
was the catalyst that made the trip possible.
Of course, we took a gamble with
an unknown boat, motor, and rigging. However, I had the foresight to equip ourselves
with basic essential gear: PFD’s, a bucket, a portable GPS, a handheld radio, a
cell phone, and a paper chart. I had done my homework and discovered that the
boat ramp offered long-term parking for a modest fee of $8 per day. With all
the pieces falling into place, we made our dream of another San Juan vacation cruise
a reality.
So, the best advice to all the dreamers longing for a San Juan vacation cruise is simple
yet crucial:
#1 Mark your calendar this instant with your departure date.
#2 Purchase a San Juan Islands paper chart or just a map and
proudly display it on a wall where you will see it every day.
Rest assured, with these two actions as your guiding stars, everything else will naturally fall into place. You'll see your San Juan dreams materialize right before your eyes.
This may seem like an almost useless bit of knowledge to visitors on a boat, but there are a few dog parks within walking distance at these ports.
Friday Harbor:
Eddie & Friends Dog Park is located on Mullis Street near the airport. It's about a one-mile walk.
Roche Harbor:
Another option on San Juan Island is Pup Town Dog Park, located at Roche Harbor
Eastsound:
This off-leash area in Buck Park is a one mile walk from the county dock.
Lopez Village:
Unfortunately, Lopez Island does not at this time have a designated dog park or an off leash area, however, there are several suitable leash areas with easy cruiser access.
The Spit preserve is adjacent to the entrance of Fisherman Bay and requires a dinghy.
Lopez Village Park has restrooms and large lawn areas. There is no dock access but you may come ashore by dinghy Dinghy access to the village
Odlin County Park has a dock and large grassy play fields.
There are several other areas where dogs are welcome but not any we want to walk to. Of course, all the parks except Matia Islands (trails) welcome pets on a leash.
Click below to see the Spit Preserve on Fisherman Bay
"Where are the best places to go and best things to do in the San Juan's?"
Talk to ten San Juan Islands cruisers and you will get ten different answers to the question, Each will be correct, or mostly correct. To support their answers, they will offer first-hand exciting personal experiences. That is why you must gather the best information, inject your wants and quirks, and then chart your own course to the San Juan's. Our experiences and local
knowledge have been earned the old-fashioned way – one cruise at a time. Sailing,
hiking, biking and gunkholing, all while immersed in nature have been our
reward. This website is a compilation of our
travels in five sailboats and two trawlers spanning three decades. Along the way we published a cruising
guide, “San Juan Islands Cruise Guide,” followed later with a Land and Sea Guidebook,“San Juan Islands Travel Guide.” My goal
for this website and these books is to help boaters, travelers, sailors, and families
enjoy the good times we have enjoyed for many years. What is the best five-day itinerary? That's like asking what's the best color. But there are certain things that our experience and local knowledge will help with. Sometimes, one just needs a little push in the right direction to get on the right tack, so to speak. It is impossible in an essay or article to cover everything important to everybody or all the possible places to go. However, this website does cover every state park, every county park, every public dock, and much much more. You will find many links to pictures and specific posts, all composed for San Juan Island boaters. Be sure, while reading to click the links and follow your interests. Be sure to use the search box at the top of this page on the left side.
You're invited!
To help you muddle through this dilemma and provide some interesting reading, please come along with us on our summer cruise in the San Juan Islands. Of course, you will be taking your own boat since ours is full.
Today, we use our laptop as a chart plotter. The program was free online Free chart plotter software but I had to buy a USB antenna for $19.95. You can get by with a small handheld GPS or even your cell phone but I enjoy the big screen. I don't want you to get lost if we get separated, or your battery is dead, so you should pick up a paper chart and a compass. chart #18421 I carry a colorful roadmap with us as well.
Let's get on the same page and assume this is your first boat trip to the San Juan's, and you are in a trailerable sailboat with a 5-6 mph speed. There are five or six starting points we have used but only three are preferred. They are Cornet Bay in Deception Pass, Cap Sante in Anacortes or Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham. If you have a fast powerboat or are coming up from the Seattle direction you will want to make time and distance adjustments. We will plan to sleep on board but use bathrooms on shore. Okay, let's go. ----- We have narrowed it down to about twenty parks to choose from for the first night, and that's not counting the marinas at Friday Harbor, Roche Harbor, or Rosario. Not to worry, I have a plan >>> all the parks and then some
Sometimes when we plan a vacation trip to the San Juan's, we try to make a great circle route because it saves time and resources. But this time we're going to decide where we go, as we go. We will see how that non-plan works out. Certain people on the boat have expressed a desire for hot showers, I guess we will see how that works out too. Since we may travel all the way across the San Juan's and back, your boat will need a minimum 75-mile range. Fuel is readily available everywhere but smart skippers figure one-third of the miles out, one-third back, and a third as a cushion. If your fuel tank is a little small you can tie a five-gallon can on deck. Knowing you have reserve fuel will ease anxious thoughts and ensure you have a great visit. Shall we also assume that you have a seaworthy vessel with all safety gear? If not, correct it before we head out, or stay home.Life jackets for all
Plan as we go itinerary:
Cornet Bay Launch Ramps
Let's begin at Cornet Bay in Deception Pass Park.
However, after reading this post, I suggest that you search this website and check out the other launch locations. Some may fit your plans better.launch pointsAlso, search the other parks and marinas and things to do. It is easy to overlook a great place or mini adventure that will make your cruise the best of all. I chose to launch at Cornet Bay this time because I really enjoy the pass scenery. The dock and the long-term parking are ideal. Plus being able to take off or return from both directions 24/7 opens up even more possibilities when not having a firm plan. If I was heading for the Sucia, Patos or Matia Island area first off, I may have chosen Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham but where we end the cruise may dictate where to begin.
The San Juans have high and low tides every day, some very high, some very low. This means you will need to be prepared to deal with going ashore at locations lacking floats. The easiest solution is to bring a dinghy; if you don't have a dinghy I suggest you buy a cheap inflatable boat or 2 person kayak for around $75. Once in the San Juans most people simply tow the dinghy everywhere they go, or deflate and stow it away. Those of you going in a ski boat or skiff may be thinking you can beach your boat, which will work, but only for a few minutes. On a falling tide in ten minutes your boat may be high and dry, unless you can carry it, your stuck until the tide comes back up. On a rising tide your boat will float away while you're on shore. Since your going to anchor in six feet of water at low tide you will need one hundred feet or more of anchor rode to accommodate a ten foot plus increase at high tide. Smart boaters bring two anchors and rode and a dinghy they can carry up above high tide.
#2 Strong Swirling Currents (in places)
San Juan currents are notorious, and the root of many stories. For fast planing boats you can pretty much ignore adverse current; however slower boats live and die by planning passages to get an assist from the current. A typical sailboat may putt along at 4.5 mph, against a 2.5 mph current their real speed over ground is 2 mph. Going with the same current their sog is 7 mph. So a ten mile passage takes 5 hours the dumb way or 1 hour 25 minutes the smart way. There are many prediction and forecast books and charts available and online. While you don't need a publication, I recommend that you buy something and keep it with you. I would also go online and print out a tide schedule for the time and area you expect to cruise. CLICK BELOW for Rosario Strait at Guemes Channel
In a nut shell, here's a simple rule of thumb to follow. On a incoming or rising tide, the water in most straits and passes flows "north" while during a falling tide the water reverses and flows "south." When the current hits an island straight on, the water will split and flow around the island usually at a slightly higher speed creating eddies at headlands and the tips of the island.
You can get lost in the dark, in the fog, or just plain lost on a sunny day. You need to bring with you a chart, and you would be smart to protect it from getting wet or torn up. I sandwich mine between two clear acrylic sheets held together with velcro.
Some will say the chart needs to be new and of the highest resolution, which may be true for ship captains and other navigators. What were talking about here is not getting lost, even a google print out may do the trick. If you are going to boat in the fog you must have a compass, and GPS, a portable handheld GPS will do fine and some new phones may do the trick too. (in thick fog you will go in circles and be totally disoriented without a compass) A gps will not replace a compass in rough water and fog, a gps is much too slow reacting when you are getting spun from broadsides or quartering waves (broaching) you need both. Many times in the San Juans visibility may be down to 3 or 4 miles and you think you can sneak across some open water to the next island, and you probably can, but if the fog thickens to pea soup you will be glad you have your compass and GPS. BTW, fast boats can't always go fast when waves and swells stack up. And only very dumb skippers go fast when they can't see.
See the ferry approaching the anchored sailboat?
#4 Wind or lack of wind (sorry sailors)
OK, here's some bad news for sailors. The San Juans are not known for great sailing winds in July and August. Out in the straits (Haro, Rosario, Georgia, Juan De Fuca)
you may get some decent sailing, but inside the islands, don't bet on it.
Sailing in April rain with reefed main
#5 Crowd control (no worries)
Most likely you won't have any problems with crowds except on the 4th of July and Labor Day. The good side is that you will always find a place to anchor, even on holidays, the dinghy ride may just be a little longer for some. Most marinas take reservations and you may as well take them up on it, but you don't need to. I suggest you slow down a little and enjoy the freedom of not planning ahead, take one day at a time and see where you go. Lastly, because this area is so close to Bellingham and Anacortes many boaters are day boaters. At the end of the day they head for home, leaving some resorts and parks half empty, especially on weekend Sunday nights. Monday or Tuesday are good days to begin your outing if you want to be alone.
Fourth of July celebration in the San Juan Islands at Roche Harbor Resort
Roche Harbor 4th of July balloon contest for kids in dinghys
yes, there was room for more, lots more
Expenses
DNR buoys are free (Cypress Island) State Park buoys are $10, many park floats are 50 cents a foot, Marinas charge between 75 cents and $2 a foot. Gasoline is a little more expensive than on land, but not much more. Food, groceries, ice are just a little more than the mainland but very fair priced overall.
How many days to plan
Plan a minimum of four days, but up to two weeks depending on what you like to do. (I like to sit on the dock at Jones Island and read my book between naps and walks, then I make a campfire in a empty tent site and cook Kielbasa followed by a glass of wine. Then retire to my boat for a good nights sleep. The next day, do it again)
Salt Water
Salt water drys sticky and does not suds up well with soap, you will get it all over you and your boat, count on it. After a week you will look forward to a shower. Your boat will be covered with salt crystals. Most marinas have little water and don't want you washing your boat.
Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham has boat and trailer fresh water wash down hoses in the parking lot. You should use them each time you dunk your trailer.
Provisions
For the most part you will want to provision before you leave on the boat. Anacortes and Bellingham have all the big stores and each has a West Marine store. All the resorts and towns have grocery stores, if you drive a fast boat, supply's may be only minutes away, putt putt's should work a store visit into your circuit. I say circuit because most cruisers will follow a circle of some sort trying to hit many stops. We find that ice needs renewing after four days, so a stop over at Friday Harbor, Deer Harbor, Roche Harbor, Blakelys, or Orcas landing fills the bill. All these places except Orcas, have gas and showers. Showers will cost a handful of quarters so be quick or be poor. Cold showers are free. Lopez Village has free showers but no dock so you will need a dinghy.how to dinghy to Lopez village
Garbage
All the parks are pack it in and pack it out, the marinas have dumpsters. If you are new to boat camping you will find garbage to be a pain because you are not used to storing everything in your boat. Little things like empty water bottles suddenly take space you don't have. You must give careful thought to what you are bringing, and the garbage it will generate. We don't use disposable bottles, minimize pop consumption, and try to have campfires to burn burnable trash. It is against the law to toss anything, (even a apple core) in the water.
Animals
Your dogs must be on a leash, period, everywhere. Raccoon's are on all islands and will climb right into your boat or kayak in the day time if you let them. Deer are all over too, but they shy away, except on Jones Island where you can hand feed them.
Otters live under most floats and docks, they will crawl all over your boat, get into things and make a mess. Otters also will mark their territory by pooing on your stuff, dock lines are a favorite.
Bathrooms
All the parks have nice composting toilets, (each island mentioned for overnight is a park) the rangers service all parks on a regular basis. You will be pleasantly surprised at how clean the facilities are.
Where to go:
Your destination is simply that, its the journey getting there and the experiences on the way that make a trip a wonderful vacation. Try the links below for some Island Park descriptions.
Bring your cell phone and charger, bring at least a portable handheld marine radio, bring basic first aid kit, call the Coast Guard, they can be there pretty fast, or arrange for vessel assist on your credit card, bring a friend with a similar boat, then you can help each other.
