Explore the San Juan Islands with expert guides, detailed maps, and comprehensive boating itineraries. Learn how to utilize the tides and currents to your advantage. Discover the best parks for camping, anchoring, and hiking. Experience the charm of Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor, then relax in a tranquil, secluded cove for the perfect getaway.
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A while back I wrote about helping others when boating, (click here to read that post) and someday you might need a little help out yourself, well last month I got help in a very big way, reinforcing my conviction about paying it forward.
Here in a nutshell is what happened. We found ourselves a 100 miles or so and a week into our cruise when the diesel engine quit. To continue on our way we had our 7.5 hp kicker and 3 gallons of gas which was not enough gas to make it to the nearest gas dock let alone on to the San Juans. After some cell phone calls to my son at home, (he was at a computer online) I decided to run about five miles to a nearby shutdown marina, anchor the boat and take the dinghy to shore and a road where I would call a taxi from a neighboring town 15 miles away (or hitch hike) to take me to somewhere to buy four five gallon fuel containers and bring them back to the dinghy full of gas. Sounds like a miserable way to finish a cruise but a workable plan never the less.
But it turned out great, while paddling my dinghy to shore I started talking with two fisherman in their dinghy, that were just finishing up crabbing for the day. They offered me a ride, they took me into town, waited while I bought four new gas jugs, took me to a gas station and brought me back to the dinghy. All this in less than an hour, heck we spend more time watching eagles than this little emergency excursion took. When I fished out a twenty and offered to pay for their time or at least the fuel cost they politely refused. My response to their generosity was to promise to help someone in need and keep it going.
So "paying it forward" is very much alive and well, and apparently I still have credits in my account.
Click below for a satellite view of Pleasant Harbor on Hood Canal
Bicycling the San Juans, may not describe our cruise last month, but we did bring three bicycles, and we did knock off about forty miles on San Juan Island.
At Friday Harbor with three bicycles, and yes the jib sheets caught on the handlebars on every tack.
Last January I posted a short blog laying out a possible bike/hike/cruise scenario/itinerary that you could use as a planning building block for your own cruise.
Our San Juan Island trip started at Shelter Bay La Conner on the Swinomish Channel.
We had just returned from a week long cruise into Hood Canal and after one night in our slip we cast off again at 5:30 am trying to beat the falling tide which would leave us trapped at the dock. With just inches or less to spare we sneaked across our shallow entrance shoal and slid into Swinomish Channel, and rode the remaining outgoing current all the way into Padilla Bay.
After a day of on and off winds and then really great afternoon sailing winds we arrived at 5pm and hailed the Friday Harbor Harbor Master
staking claim to a slip for the next two nights. A casual stroll around town, and live local music drifting down from the city's seawall gathering esplanade contributed to a very relaxing evening on board. Not having tides or currents dictating our bicycling schedule allowed us to sleep in the next morning. Finally with hot coffee in hand, (okay, in the cup) I wandered up to Kings Market and purchased hash browns, eggs and some yummy impulse items to bring back to the boat for a late breakfast.
Definitely before noon, (but not much) we walked our bikes off the floats and headed uphill, of course it's always going to be uphill when you start at sea level. We used a folded and wadded up, photocopied not to scale scrap of map for guidance and headed for Cattle Point.
The roads were without bike lanes, but drivers were respectful and we had an easy ride to American Camp and then on to Cattle Point Lighthouse.
Fortunately the weather was clear and with no fog we had views all the way to Vancouver Island and across the strait of Juan De Fuca. The Olympic mountains hung in the distance completing our postcard views. Viewing Cattle Pass from up high was a thrill and brought into perspective what was previously a cockpit level chart image. It was easy to see why the Americans chose this location to set up their cannons. From our vantage point we could scan the water route all the way back to Turn Island where our boat lay just around the corner.
We brought cookies and water for lunch, and learned next time to bring lots more water and less cookies.
There is no road right along the coast so we rode part way back to Friday Harbor before turning towards
Lime Kiln Park.
We encountered a few long steep grades which required walking for some of us. The cliff side views are stunning and it is somewhat difficult to ride safely while scanning the waters for Killer Whales. I learned right away to stop if I wanted to really take in the sights.
We followed a circle route taking us by the Lavender Gardens and back to town on a different road.
I forgot and left my camera on the boat so no pictures, sorry. The next day we were fortunate to not have any soreness brought on by being out of shape and suddenly biking like we were still children.
On the way back to La Conner we stopped by Spencer Spit for an afternoon hike, and then anchored at James Island.
We hung around in the morning waiting for the rising tide which we rode almost all the way to Shelter Bay.
This cruise, in spite of motor problems (our diesel quit and forced us to use our 7.5 kicker for the entire trip) turned out to be one of our best, longest, and most enjoyable. I highly recommend planning a bicycle/cruise to any of the San Juan Islands.
Click below for a satellite view of Lime Kiln, Whale Watch Park
We are tied up in slip F23 at Friday Harbor for our second night and since we have free wifi I thought I would let you know what is going on right now.
Guest slip at Friday Harbor
I can proclaim Rosey has made it to the San Juans, but the story is far from told.
As you know we started in La Conner and made a 160 mile detour into Hood canal. At our farthest turn around point Roseys old engine chose to quit and we were forced to return to LaConner using our 7.5 hp Honda dinghy motor. After some discussion and a good nights sleep in our rented slip we decided to push on to San Juan Island at a maximum 4 mph and hope the wind would help out.
The trip to Friday Harbor took about eleven hours overall. We had some following wind boost in Lopez sound, but when we turned the corner into Upright Channel
things came to life and we had fantastic sailing right to the marina breakwater, at times our gps showed us 7.1 mph. Every tack required un-hooking jib sheets from handle bars, next time I load bikes I will try to improve the system.
Yesterday we rode our bicycles to Cattle Pass Point Lighthouse and then over to Lime Kiln Park, a distance of about 35 miles. We had to walk up some of the hills and several jerks honked at us. None us of were really in shape, but today we feel good with no soreness so it worked out fine
Today we plan to head back with a stop at Spencer Spit and then spend the night at James Island while we wait for flood tide tomorrow morning,
hopefully the current will whisk us all the way to La Conner because our 4 mph speed is stopped dead by an opposing wind and current.
Spencer Spit
Anchored at James Island
So the answer to the "how many horsepower" question is 7.5 hp, but were not back to La Conner yet.
(for anyone that is curious - I switched to a 15 hp Honda and gained one mph in top speed and one mph in cruising speed - imho 15 hp is the correct outboard auxiliary power for a boat like Windrose (seven ton +-)
one week later from home:
OK, update time, first off, the four boat dock at James Island was full so we had to anchor out and dinghy to shore at the kayak campground for our campfire to cook hot dog and s'mores.
Anchoring was a real chore, we tried setting the hook three times in two locations before I felt good enough to sleep through a tide change. We ended up with a Bahamian set using our grapple anchor for number two. Plus at Linda's urging I set Roseys antique sounder alarm at two fathoms,
I slept like a rock until daylight. We waited for the current change and upped anchor around noon, as soon as we came around the end of James the kicker quit. For a moment I considered raising sail but decided trying to claw off a lee shore was a bad move. We had about a thousand feet before we would be in trouble, and knowing we could quickly drop three hooks I concentrated on fixing the kicker problem asap.
Turned out the primer bulb was sucking air because the hose barb was broken halfway through, with a little realigning of the hose it started up and never quit again, but the problem obviously needs attention before we depend on it again.
Once clear of James with the wind still on our beam we loosened both sails and made quick work of Rosario Strait. The wind held steady and the helping current up Guemes channel boosted us along at over 5mph right into Swinomish channel
where the wind quit, but the current and kicker carried us up to La Conner in short order. With only one half mile left to reach Shelter Bay the current did an about face. Under Rainbow bridge I let the motor idle in neutral so I could measure the current with the gps, astonishingly we were already being swept back at 2 mph and losing fast.
We quickly spun around and ran at wot to regain our lost ground and make it into the protected channel leading to our moorage. Luckily we gave our selves just enough time to make it, an hour or so later would have been a nightmare current possibly forcing us to anchor in the channel somewhere waiting for the current change.
Sunrise from shore from Langley on Whidbey Island in Saratoga Passage
All systems running before engine gave up
see the old spinning flashing light depth sounder? (very nostalgic)
Stopped by Navy for submarine while crossing to Port Ludlow
Lonely Rosey is only guest at Pleasant Harbor on Hood Canal, btw hot showers, wifi come with slip fee
Camp Parson Boy Scout Camp at Jackson Cove on Dabob Bay (Hood Canal)
We anchored at Camp Parsons and went ashore for the Campfire
on Jaidens last night of summer camp. Our primary reason for making the trip up Hood Canal was to pick up Jaiden and then head north to our planned bicycle trip around San Juan Island. In the morning after all the scouts had departed in their many cars we discovered Rosey's engine had given up for good. With only our 7.5 kicker and three gallons of gas our options were limited. With the help of Quintin in Portland via cell phone, google maps, and an upcoming beer festival for incentive.
We were directed five miles to Seabeck where I anchored and took the dinghy to shore. I then hitched a ride with some local fisherman to Home Depot, purchased four five gallon gas cans and returned with enough fuel to complete our journey.
Our first trip with Rosey is behind us now, we spent twelve days, covered over two hundred sea miles, 35+ bicycle miles, got held up by a nuclear sub, what a great time.
Here is a follow up about Roseys not starting that morning. It turned out the shut down lever was still pulled out due to a weak spring or whatever, and after an aggravating but sorta adventurous ordeal I discovered the issue, pushed the lever, and she started up and has ran fine ever since. So operator error or something like that hits again.
Click below for a satellite view of Shelter Bay in La Conner
I need some help, (opportunity knocks) I know our last cruise had some gps problems but I don't remember the specifics. All I really remember was that I decided I should get a new gps because my old Magellan could not be trusted or was failing somehow.
Being a frugal boater and not having unlimited resources makes it difficult to shell out $400+ for a hand held battery eating device I only use in the fog or to measure distance to my next anchorage.
I stopped by a web site or more like fifty and came away confused after reading reviews from techies, hunters, hikers, and arm chair skippers.
I wish I could just rely on someone to tell me what to buy after hearing my list of wants.
it needs to be battery powered, aaa or aa with a 12V helm plug in
rugged enough to be dropped once in awhile (water resistant too)
day light visible display about 2.5" or bigger (ok a lot bigger)
on board chart for my area (duh) and not an extra $200 fee, and they must include Canada's Vancouver and Gulf islands.
it needs to display nav aids at a minimum, just like my chart
I want a speedometer and bearing readout
I want it to work inside the cabin, or at least by the windows
it needs to boot up in less than 5 minutes
I like my nav aids in color, especially the red ones, but not if it's too many $$$
I want to have local level streets shown for hikes
it should fit in my pocket
it should be dependable, and last, and last, and last
I'm sure I have other wants, I'll add later, here is what does not matter to me (much) (maybe)
upgrade ability
connectivity to a laptop, or chart plotter
altimeter
emergency radio or locator beacon (if it costs boat dollars)
e-mail, forecasts or anything confusing that is more dollars
more memory for charts of other areas
phone numbers of business, etc if it's extra $$
mfd, multifunction display or depth or radar, (just go away, your too wealthy for this blog)
floating is nice, so is waterproof but I can pass if more $$
Are we getting an idea that costs are paramount to me?
More about gps and the San Juan trailer sailor.
In my opinion you can get by without a gps just like boaters have done for centuries, but it is a really handy piece of equipment, and fun to share info with others on board, and truly a marvelous aid in foggy conditions. What you can not do without, is a chart, a compass, a depth sounder, pfd's and all the other Coast Guard required safety gear.
Okay, lest I have mislead someone, I believe you need a gps in the fog but you could simply stay in port or go another direction. Boating blindly in fog with any current is a recipe for disaster.
What makes a good dinghy beach? Scroll to the bottom for my number one and number two choices when sailing the San Juan Islands
When planning a trip to the San Juan Islands, choosing the right dinghy beach can make or break your experience. At first, I was simply going to list key features of good dinghy beaches, but then I realized that newcomers might need a heads-up—not all "good" dinghy beaches are worth visiting, and some "bad" ones might still be worth a stop.
Why the Right Dinghy Beach Matters
Even if you plan to stay at a dock, remember that dock space in the San Juans is not reservable. More often than not, you’ll need to anchor and go ashore by dinghy—and if the beach isn’t dinghy-friendly, it could seriously impact or even ruin your visit.
Considerations for Different Activities
Camping – A poor landing spot could make unloading gear difficult or even dangerous.
Hiking – If you're leaving your dinghy for the entire day, you'll need to ensure it's safe from rising tides, strong currents, or theft.
Precautions – Some beaches require extra planning, such as a long rope, transport wheels, or even a chain and padlock to secure your dinghy properly.
Being prepared can make all the difference. A little foresight ensures that an inconvenient beach doesn’t turn into a major headache. Forewarned is forearmed!
In my opinion, a good dinghy beach simply allows you to get to shore and back to the boat with a minimum of fuss and bother, but there is a lot to consider
In no particular order, lets make a list of likes and dislikes.
not getting feet wet getting into and out of the dinghy is really nice.
ditto for all tide levels, so the angle (slope) of the beach is crucial
gravel versus mud is a no brain-er
sand is better than mud, but both track into the dinghy and back to the boat (gravel doesn't track)
something nearby to tie the painter to, like a massive old log
a cool view of my boat when I turn around
a nearby restroom is handy
not smelling like dead seaweed is a plus
fires permitted and driftwood is always nice for evenings
nearby tide pools for exploring
security is something some spots lack (theft of dinghy or contents)
free-roaming dogs! or other wildlife
how about a lack of bugs and bird droppings
what about a western view of the setting sun
protection from weather-driven waves and nasty wakes
click on -read more- to find my two best dinghy beach choices
Of course buoys are first come first served and you are not allowed to tie your dinghy to one as a way to reserve or save it.
But what are you going to do if you find one with a dinghy tied to it? Set it free! No, of course not.
Which brings up road rage or should we coin a new term? how about -water rage- or -cruiser rage- boat rage- island rage- For the most part, boaters seem to leave their rage on shore, but if you pay much attention to the vhf, you may think otherwise.
Back to buoys, mooring buoys are supposed to have a blue stripe, and most of the parks are close enough, putting a stripe on an old tire is a little tough.
Around the populated areas you may find lots of buoys, most are likely to be private, none are OK to use without permission.
A word to the wise, don't trust buoys any further than you can tow them.
Some are not maintained and break loose when you are asleep or ashore.
Some may be in shallow water, or even be on the ground at low tide (check your depth) or have lots of rope, and flotsam dangling from them. (yes, park buoys)
I think when you hook onto a buoy where you plan to leave valuable property tied up, you should back down as if you were setting your anchor, but that's just me. >> read this post Anchor Buoy breaks free at Jones Island
Some other time we can talk about cleats and rotten old floats.
Click below for satellite view of Blakely Island store and dock
In keeping with this site's mission, I thought just a few (all I know) bits of information were in order. If you're an old salt, skip right past this post, but first timers or part-time first mates may find something useful.
Aids to navigation are the road signs of our waterways, and just like driving a car down the highway, you wouldn't think of not knowing or understanding some basic safety rules.
Consider a three-year-old driving toward you on the road; he can't reach the brakes, he can't read the stop sign, and he doesn't know which side of the road to drive on. Now picture yourself driving your shiny new boat in a busy waterway or dangerous channel. No brakes, check!, confusingstriped buoys, check!, parallel park a boat, oops, check!. You owe it to other boaters to understand a few rules, or at the very least have lots of liability insurance. Speaking of insurance, does your insurance cover damage to your boat and passengers and the mega monster and passengers that you hit?
The three R's (3 aaarrr's) rrr. is a nautical mnemonic you should memorize "Red, Right, Returning"That's it, everyone knows it, everyone uses it, so should you.
Another cool nautical mnemonic for you is, "a good red wine is port"which will remind you that all boats running lights will have a red on the port side bow, which leaves green for the starboard side bow
3R's "red, right, returning"means to me, keep the red buoys on my right when returning from sea.
So this means keep the green ones on your left. Returning from sea would also be heading up river. As a practical usage, one would approach and enter a strange marina keeping the red markers on his right. See, already you're keeping off the rocks. Of course there are a few places where local conditions dictate other rules. For example, Swinomish Channel has red buoys on the right at both ends of the passage.
What good is knowing which side of a boat (or big ship) the red and green lights are on? I'll tell you why, but first you need to turn off the sun and go boating at night. Next, when you see a red light coming at you, adjust your course so you don't collide. OK, now what if it's a green light coming towards you? OK, now what if the green light changes to red and then back to green? What if the light is both green and red?
I'm just a little confused, and so are others. Out on the water these are the signals that boaters use to tell others what their intentions are, and there is no confusion if you remember a few rules.
Remember this "a good red wine is port"It means the red light is on the left side (port) of the boat. Following normal rules of the road you would meet other boats keeping to the right, just like on the highway, so you pass each other red to red (port to port). OK when you see a red, then green, then red changing again, and again, it means they are turning back and forth. A steady red/green at the same time means the other vessel is more or less pointed at you. OK, now when you wander back and forth, steering your boat like a drunken sot, you can imagine what message your lights are sending out over the dark waters.
Some wisdom learned the hard way: When navigating in darkness and the lights you are watching go out (as in you can't see them suddenly) it may mean something is in the water between you and the lights, let's see what could be blocking the view. A headland, another boat, a reef or rock, a piling, your crews head. What it means is you better stop or slow down and figure out immediately why the lights are blinking.
Just for fun, I looked up some other sayings, some silly, some confusing. When all three lights I see ahead, I turn to Starboard and show my Red: Green to Green, Red to Red, Perfect Safety -- Go Ahead.
Red over Red The Captain Is Dead Vessel not under command
Danger Signal: Blast quick five. To stay alive This is the danger signal to be given if you think there is confusion or imminent danger of a collision. It's also the signal that the ferry boat will blast at you if you're being stupid.
"I wonder if there's any red port wine left." OK, I got it now, red on left and port means left. (not that port is good)
Below are a few buoys that need to be understood
The top band marks the preferred channel
Safe water, the above buoys may be passed on either side
Stay away, these buoy mark rocks and bad things.
(check your chart)
The below buoys are your sign posts,
odd numbers on green, even on red,
the same numbers are on your chart.
Red Right Returning 3rrr's
The above striped marker demands your attention, slow down or stop
until you figure out where you are.
Many times individuals will make a buoy/marker out of a jug or old fender.
Do yourself a favor and use caution, there is a reason for the marker, and watch out for a trailing line if it's floating free, you don't need something wrapped around your propeller.
If you had a chart, you would be able to spot the nav. aids on the chart
and figure out where you are and what to do.
I use NOAA chart number 18421, it has an 80,000 scale. I prefer this chart because it shows most of the areas I like to cruise on one chart. You may wish to have a larger scale and more charts
By the way, if you're using your chart for trip planning purposes, you may like non-navigational charts/maps better. We find a fish-n-map chart inexpensive and very useful.
Our favorite for planning is a full-color waterproof laminated tourist map with topo lines, but it does not show depth or rocks.
A warning some boaters don't heed,
Please don't take off anywhere with just your chart plotter or portable GPS, iphone, or whatever gadget is popular today. You really need to have a hard copy chart or map. (and a compass too) If it just sits rolled up in the corner, that's fine. You probably don't use your whistle, flares, PFDs, or any number of emergency items either, but you still carry them.
Click below for a satellite view of Rosario Resort
Sometimes you can loose track of the little picture when you see only what you want.
This web site may run into a whirlpool and begin spinning in circles if I am left to my own devices, so I'm asking readers to make comments, and tell me whats working.
should I begin including info that's not from or relating to the San Juan area
How about non boating stuff
more or less pictures
more or less text
does anyone care about personal projects or ?
At the bottom of every page or post is a comment box, that's where you say your two cents.
Someone told me they thought this article had some merit, so I re-posted it here, you decide.
Just because it's on a trailer, doesn't mean you should haul it down the highway
See the Bombay Project for a blow by blow description of this tsunami rescue
I tried to find a suitable article written by someone with firsthand experience pulling trailers. All the ones I found were pretty worthless so I wrote an article myself.
I have many years hauling around construction equipment, boats and camp trailers. Rather than try to put together something sensible, I will just do a Q&A thing. This article may entertain you old timers and help a few newbie’s. If you disagree with something, feel free to post comments.
First frequently asked question is “how much can my car/truck haul?
The answer requires more questions. Do you mean safely? Without voiding warranty? How far? Any big long hills? Auto or clutch? Make model and condition? As you can see it’s a complicated question, so let’s cut to the chase. On the door jamb of your car is a tag with the factory approved weights your vehicle is designed to carry and tow. If you are trying to limit your liability in an accident you should heed the numbers. You can easily exceed load limits without being aware, if you do you may shorten the life of your automatic transmission, you may overheat, you may not have the experience to stay out of trouble.
Next; “ how much tongue weight should I have”One rule of thumb is
click on "read more"
If your a beginner to the San Juans as well as a beginner to cruising (boat camping) you may find some useful advice here.
But some people don't like being told what to bring or what not to bring, or ask for directions when they are hopelessly lost. So stop right here if you recognize yourself, and move on.
Okay, now that the captain and skipper have quit reading lets see if we can ease the pain somewhat. I'm not going to try to be all inclusive here, but just some little reminders to get you thinking about your cruise. Obviously you have a spotless well equipped boat and many things are already on board.
I'll bet you don't have an underwater flashlight, they are great for teasing sea creatures after dark, and will add hours of entertainment time to answer your children's "I'm bored" comments. (hint, stick a cheap flashlight in a ziplock bag) Now tie it to the end of your boat hook and poke it under water
How about heavy duty zip lock bags, or the ones they sell at the outdoor outfitter stores for river running, you know for your cell phone, ipod, camera, wallet, etc, etc, etc.....
speaking of waterproof have you got any good wood matches in a waterproof container?
here's one you really miss and then its too late - chap-stick with spf 99 (how high do the #'s go?)
remember that hat that blew off into the water? ditto for glasses!
you need a chin strap or leash.
OK, this is a good one, get a second or third corkscrew, uh huh! (try em at home to make sure they work well)
Dramamine in all forms for everyone
cheap little led flashlights, lots of em, they're cheap
plastic kites for beach fun, don't forget the string
multi-function tool that you carry in your pocket all the time
boat cleaning supplies, wax, polish, paint thinner to remove tars you track on board with your shoes. We seem to do our heavy cleaning while on a cruise, I see others doing the same.
misc. boat repair supplies and tools. (sail tape) get a bottle of soft scrub it's my best friend (paint thinner too)
These are just some starter ideas, feel free to add your favorites.
Since some folks really benefit from in depth detailed instructions and are lost without to-do lists, I have added below a list created for a general travel article.
Click here and read more >>>>>
This may seem like a blatant promotion for a web site, well duh! but before you go cruising, you should check out www.activecaptain.com You owe it to yourself and crew to be informed. A picture is worth a thousand words, or maybe much more in this case. These snapshots only capture a small amount so I snapped three to really show how much is available, and I left off the local knowledge label so you could go look it up yourself.
All the pictures include the area from Victoria to Bellingham to Anacortes, which means you may have to scroll to view entire picture. Remember, these are snapshots, you need to go to web site for functions to work (try clicking on pics for a bigger view)
Red markers show marinas and docks
Yellow markers shownavigation warnings
Green markers show comments and reviews from cruisers like me and you
Nothing works because these are snapshots, you need to go to the real web site
For most people, bicycling the San Juan's means arriving with your bike and gear in a car on a Ferry.
But it doesn't have to be this way. Savvy cyclists leave their cars in Anacortes and ride the ferry to the San Juan Islands. Once in the islands bicycle travel and free ferry rides is the way to go.
First let's explore a likely scenario for those without a boat, bear with me, this will get a little wordy:
You drive to Anacortes and find a place to park for free for a week, maybe more. Or park at the ferry terminal long term parking lot for about $40 per week. Next, jump on the ferry paying a small nominal fee for one passenger and bicycle for a lift to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, or Orcas, or Lopez, or Shaw. FYI: foot passengers and bicyclists never need reservations or need to wait in line like car travelers.
So far, so good!
The day is still early, start touring (ride your bike). At the end of the day you will end up in a motel, B&B, campground, or any number of resorts. You probably will be well advised to have some reservations lined up in advance. Oh, and bring a pocket full of cash because restaurants and beds aren't free. The next day tour around some more then jump on the free for foot and bicycle passengers Ferry to other Islands and repeat. Eventually, you will end up back in Anacortes where your car is waiting for the drive home.
This is a great plan if you are into minimalist and don't have a boat, but there are a few weaknesses; number one, where is all my extra gear that I take when I travel, oh yeah its back in the car parked in Anacortes while I'm gallivanting around on an island with nothing but my pocket full of cash and what fits in my bike bags. (not good for some of us) Excellent plan if you're a hardcore bicyclist. Number two doesn't matter, I'm still back on number one.
"Why a boat?" is a fair question. The usual
quick answer? "Why not a boat?"
Aha—got me again. But if you don’t like the answer, ask a
better question.
Okay, how about this: "Why take a boat for a cruise
instead of driving and camping?" Now we’re getting somewhere.
Why a Sailboat?
We spend most of our lives on land. A boat, at least for me,
offers wide open spaces, freedom, and something more—an escape from the
ordinary. The journey itself is my desire, my wish, my goal. The destination?
Merely a mark on the chart, a waypoint in life.
A boat is both a complicated machine I must master
and a simple drifting raft—a vessel of endless potential. Whether
slicing through the waves, steering an underwater wing, or gliding lazily with
the current, the experience is the same. The past and future dissolve; I am
completely immersed in the present.
Underway at sea, my mind is filled with the pressing matters
at hand. What course is safe? What hazards lie ahead? Are we drifting toward
that menacing lee shore? Will we clear the point, or should we tack now and
risk thin water? What is that new sound? That strange motion? That unfamiliar
vibration?
I spot a rock ahead. A glance at the depth gauge tells me we
have room—but then the rock disappears. Now it reappears, just off the bow. As
we close the distance, I see it has eyes, a nose, and whiskers.
A mariner's connection stirs within me, and I fight the urge
to wave. No response is forthcoming.
Anxiously, I check the depth again, hand poised near the
motor. Then—the wind shifts. The sails fill. A sudden gust tightens the lines.
I glance up the mast; the wind vane swings 90 degrees to starboard.
The sails, hanging like billowy white clouds, spill wind. I
ease the mainsheet, adjust the jib. The telltales stream flat. Our trim is
perfect.
The boat picks up speed, slicing cleanly through the smooth
green water. We’re in the groove now—fairly flying. Our rolling wake is a
fleeting marker of where we've been, an open message that tells little but
still points our course for all to see.
No longer in the current’s unrelenting grip, we’ll soon
clear the point and escape the deadly, ship-wrecking lee shore. No need for the
motor—we’ll sail into the cove and anchor in time for a shore hike, a hearty
dinner, and a sunset campfire on the beach.
But then—the sails luff. The wind shifts, then dies
altogether.
I trim the sheets, but the telltales hang limp. The boat
slows.
I glance toward the looming shore. Check the depth again. We
may not make the cove after all.
Should I start the motor?
Looking for hazards, I scan the water. More heads
have turned toward me now, watching. The connection feels stronger. This time,
I give a dismissive wave—they know what’s happened. They know the wind has
abandoned me.
Without it, we lose headway. Then, steerage.
Drifting backwards now, ever so slowly, the boat inches
closer to the rocky shore. Closer to certain doom.
I check the depth again.
Kelp and seaweed float around us—pockets of debris from
the last storm, drifting aimlessly in little flotillas of waste.
Then—suddenly—a slap of halyards against the mast.
The rigging strains, flexes. A swell rolls beneath us,
nudging the boat with unseen force.
I scan the water. What caused the commotion? What set off
the alarms?
Then I see it—a small boat, far off in the distance.
Its wake reaches us in a series of gentle ripples, each one fainter than the
last. A message sent. A message received. Then, silence.
I check the depth and glance toward the shore.
And I wait.
An hour later, nestled in the cove, the burnt orange sun silently
slips below the horizon, marking the end of a wonderful day. A glass of fine
Pinot or a cool drink rests in my hand as I sit by the campfire on the
beach. My trusty yacht is peacefully anchored 150 feet offshore, or
perhaps tied tranquilly to the dock just a few steps away.
Later, after dark, while waiting for sleep to overtake me,
my thoughts drift to the day gone by—and to what tomorrow will bring.
This cruise itinerary is for the first timer with the boat on a trailer.
The novice skipper with family for crew will find this article contains just what's needed to get going on that long talked about trip to the San Juans. While this is a step by step action plan to follow, some skippers do not need all the steps and prodding and so they should skip ahead to
Day #1. for the daily itinerary
For the rest of us, these steps are important, so I've numbered them. Before you go
Right now, go put two marks on the calendar. Mark the day of departure from home and one week or so later mark the day your returning. Do it now or forever hold your peace and admit your not really going boat camping in the San Juans.
Go to your local chandlery or go online and purchase a big color map or chart of the San Juans. I'm not telling you which one, it doesn't matter, just big and one you like to look at.
Got the map? Good now nail it to the wall where you can see it all the time. Do it now! OK, the hardest part is over, you have now made a commitment to yourself and crew. Your really going. Kick back a little, relax, do some day dreaming. Your trip (cruise, vacation, what ever you want to call it) is already well underway. By now you should be getting into the excitement that comes with planning and preparations. Note: Don't let worry and stress build up, your really going to enjoy this outing and it will be easy, trust me (heh, heh, heh) Relaxing good times should be part of the process that started when you made the X on the calendar. Remember, on this cruise there are no deadlines to meet, no times to beat, no "sorry no vacancy's" to worry about. You are on your own schedule to do as you please. What could be better besides a gourmet chef and staff. Study the map with your crew, locate Friday Harbor, Jones Island, and Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham. Do some internet searches, read peoples reviews.
Start compiling a list of supply's and provisions that you think you need. Click here for help with that list >> Cruisers Packing List this list may be a little too much, so pick and choose.
Start making a list of boat and trailer, must do's (like greasing the wheel bearings) I mention wheel bearings because there are a few "must do's" that will potentially ruin your plans, having a bearing go out from your neglect is avoidable, so are boat motor issues. We once went with an untested, worrisome diesel motor, and sure enough it quit, but because of suspected problems I had mounted an outboard bracket and brought my trusty 7.5 hp Honda along which not only saved the trip, but allowed us to extend it a few days. Another time with a different boat I towed a dinghy which sole purpose was to carry a spare outboard just in case. Another mistake not to make is inadequate packing for inclement weather, (hope for warm sunny days, but plan for cold windy rain). Don't forget seasickness pills (Dramamine) or other medication, one persons needs could ruin the trip. There must some other must do's that are particular to your family??? Spare tire for trailer! Hmm!
#5 was a downer, lets lighten up. You need to bring an ice chest if your boat has none, maybe two, plan on ice lasting 3-4 days and then resupply time. For a food menu, you should plan to eat well, especially if you have bad weather when hot food hits the spot and improves spirits. Sandwiches are easy to prepare and bring lots of trail mix and snacks. You will need lots of water, don't plan on any being available once you shove off. We bring our water in 5 gallon jugs and pour it into smaller bottles
You will need a propane cook stove and fuel bottles to last entire trip (propane is $7+ in the islands)
Garbage: I need to mention it now after suggesting you bring all the junk food. Your little boat will quickly become overrun with trash, bring bags, the outside islands have no garbage service. Think about all that convenience food packaging material I just told you to bring. Some of the packaging may be left at home. Prepare things in advance and freeze meals ready to go as they thaw (2-4 days in ice chest)
Under boat equipment, the list is very subjective so lets just list a few must haves. PFD's all around and all coastie required equipment (whistle, type 4, fire ext., registration, lights, etc) Plus I think you need a minimum of two anchors and extra rode, extra fuel if your tank is small. Your boat should have a range of 75 miles. The rule is 1/3 outbound, 1/3 to get back, 1/3 for reserve. It could be 25 miles between fuel stops, so a 75 mile range gives a good cushion. Many boaters simply tie 5 gallon jugs on deck. If your boat is open and it really rains hard, bring a tarp and ropes to lash it down. You may sleep on shore so a tent is needed. You need a hand bilge pump and a bucket (they look like a big suction tube and flex hose.
Bring a GPS, You can get by without one but they are fun and really are useful. Some phones have apps available. Bring your cell phone (they work good almost everywhere) Bring the map or chart nailed on the wall or better yet go buy a real navigation chart with depths and rocks all located. Bring a compass (hand held is OK) Bring a vhf marine radio (you can buy a portable battery one for about $100.
The boats loaded your ready to go. Don't forget to tell someone where your going, and when to call for help if you don't check in as planned. That person could be a friend or relative that doesn't panic over icky weather reports. They should call the San Juan County Sheriff or Coast Guard if needed, or someone you have prearranged to call, 911 works too. Remember, your plans may change as the week progresses, but you can check in with a cell phone call most of the time.
Time to go
The blue line indicates the general route, red dots are overnight stops. 80 miles
I actually had hopes that somehow, in some unbelievable fashion, I would get my long wanted pilothouse sailboat for a present. Maybe under the tree would be a little card in a plain manila envelope, and inside would be a photo of her at a dock somewhere. There would be a big red bow on the cabin roof or around the main boom. "Pop" goes the bubble of my dream world, Christmas has come and gone, and I'm still waiting for my new boat (new to me) to magically appear. If you see my new boat out there somewhere, please let me know, I really need to start outfitting her for next summer's cruises.
BTW my birthday is in April.
I hesitate to write about Cypress Island, my impulse is to keep the secret, secret.
For some, Cypress Island is a destination. For others it's just a stop on the way to somewhere else.
For me, it's a dependable refuge that I return to again and again.
This selection of images is from Pelican Beach on Cypress Island. The beach is very dinghy friendly. Pelican Beach should be visited for one hour or overnight, or you are missing out on something truly special.
Find your own trail on Cypress
Please use this link for all the other parks and keep Cypress secret. San Juan area Marine Parks list